نتایج جستجو برای: wave celerity

تعداد نتایج: 218203  

1997
L. J. BULL

It is generally accepted that the celerity of a discharge wave exceeds that of a floodwave. The discharge wave is the initial wavefront (shown by an increase in stage at a particular site), whereas the floodwave refers to the body of water moving downstream. Yet, few studies have investigated the varying relationship between discharge and suspended sediment concentration as floods propagate dow...

1998
Stéphan T. Grilli

Two depth inversion algorithms applicable to coastal waters are developed, calibrated, and validated based on results of computations of periodic waves shoaling over mild slopes, in a two-dimensional numerical wave tank based on fully nonlinear potential flow theory. In actual field situations, these algorithms would be used to predict the cross-shore depth variation h based on sets of values o...

2001
SURENDRA KUMAR MISHRA VIJAY P. SINGH

The Seddon speed formula expressed mathematically as c = dg/dA (or alternatively, as c = (1 + m)u0; where Q is the discharge, A is the area of cross-section, c is the wave speed, u0 is the normal flow velocity, and m is a dimensionless parameter) is revisited in the context of elasticity and thermodynamics. Its link with the linearized solution of St Venant's equations for wave celerity, which ...

1994
Andreas Schr Roberto Mayerle Werner Zielke

In this paper a new set of Boussinesq wave equations with improved linear dispersion properties is proposed for extending its application to deeper water without having its mathematical form changed. The improvements are due to the combination of a generalized set of Boussinesq wave equations expressed in terms of any velocity, with additional dispersive terms obtained by invoking the linear sh...

2005
R. WIEGEL

Cnoidal wave theory is appropriate to periodic waves progressing in water whose depth is less than about one-tenth the wavelength. The leading results of existing theories are modified and given in a more practical form, and the graphs necessary to their use by engineers are presented. As well aa results for the wave celerity and shape, expressions and graphs for the water particle velocity and...

Journal: :Proceedings of the Japan Society of Civil Engineers 1979

Journal: :J. Sensors 2016
Kévin Martins Chris E. Blenkinsopp Jun Zang

This paper presents an investigation into the use of a 2-dimensional laser scanner (LiDAR) to obtain measurements of wave processes in the inner surf and swash zones of a microtidal beach (Rousty, Camargue, France). The bed is extracted at the wave-by-wave timescale using a variance threshold method on the time series. Individual wave properties were then retrieved from a local extrema analysis...

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