Longshore transport experiments were conducted in a large-scale physical model to evaluate predictions of the CERC formula with measured longshore sediment transport rates. It was found that the CERC formula produced reasonable estimates if the coefficient K was calibrated and applied to waves with similar breaker type. The calibrated K values are much smaller than values that are commonly used...

[1] A time domain Boussinesq model for nearshore hydrodynamics is improved to obtain the conservation of vertical vorticity correct to second order and extended for use on an open coast using longshore periodic boundary conditions. The model is utilized to simulate surface waves and longshore currents under laboratory and field conditions. Satisfactory agreement is found between numerical resul...

The nearshore potential vorticity balance of Bowen and Holman (1989) is expanded to include the forcing from wave group-induced radiation stresses. Model results suggest that the forcing from these radiation stresses can drive oscillations in the longshore current that have a spatial structure similar to linear shear instabilities of the longshore current. In addition, the forced response is ne...

The nutrient cycles of coastal upwelling zones are studied with simple mass balance models of Ekman transport, longshore transport, surface productivity, and dissolved phosphorous. The models are constrained with data from the Peru, northwest Africa, and Oregon upwelling systems. The onshore-offshore mass balance model agrees with published Ekman transport, surface productivity, and nutrient da...

Recent study has shown that 3D computations of the morphological development of a coast shows irregularities compared with the 2DH (depth-averaged) computations. Therefore a validation of the surf zone currents computed using the 2DH (depth-averaged) and 3D approach in Delft3D is made. The 2DH and 3D approach are compared using an idealized case and validated using data from the laboratory expe...

Results from an experimental investigation into the e ects of rip channels on the nearshore circulation system are presented The results show that periodic channels in an otherwise longshore uniform bar induce longshore pressure gradi ents that drive pairs of counter rotating circulation cells Dense measurements of wave height wave setup and induced currents are presented In addition ev idence ...

Aiming at improving present understanding on longshore sediment transport (LST), the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center recently established a Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility (LSTF). The 3dimensional movable-bed facility has the capability of simulating wave conditions that are directly comparable to annual averages along many low energy coasts. Wave, current, and sedime...

The major objective of this study was to develop further understanding of 3D nearshore hydrodynamics under a variety of wave and tidal forcing conditions. The main tool used was a comprehensive 3D numerical model – combining the flow module of Delft3D with the WAVE solver of XBeach – of nearshore hydroand morphodynamics that can simulate flow, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. Su...