Steep, short-crested waves, as well as a large variety of three-dimensional propagating wave patterns have been created in laboratory, utilizing a plunging half-cone. Monochromatic waves, over a range of frequencies and amplitudes through breaking and including soliton wave groups near resonance, have been observed and studied in a small wave flume. This monochromatic wavemaker creates complex ...

a boundary integral method is used to simulate spilling breakers. the bottom is also included inthe introduced closed boundary and the problem is directly solved in the physical plane. the method has beenshown to be remarkably stable, and no numerical instability has occurred in any of the calculations. theresults reveal that both the momentum and total energy are almost constant in time during...

Breaking without air entrainment of very short wind-forced waves, or microscale wave breaking, is undoubtedly widespread over the oceans and may prove to be a significant mechanism for enhancing the transfer of heat and gas across the air-sea interface. However, quantifying the effects of microscale wave breaking has been difficult because the phenomenon lacks the visible manifestation of white...

Most existing and planned offshore wind turbines (OWTs) are located in shallow water where the possibility of breaking waves impacting the structure may influence design. Breaking waves and their associated impact loads are challenging to model because the breaking process is a strongly non-linear phenomenon with significant statistical scattering. Given the challenges and uncertainty in modeli...

Ocean Wave Energy Converters (OWECs) operating on the water surface are subject to storms and other extreme events. In particular, high and steep waves, especially breaking waves, are likely the most dangerous to OWECs. A method for quantifying the breaking severity of waves is presented and applied to wave data from Coastal Data Information Program station 139. The data are wave height and len...

A new radar imaging model of ocean current features is proposed. The simulated normalized radar cross section (NRCS) takes into account scattering from “regular” surfaces (by means of resonant Bragg scattering and specular reflections) and scattering from breaking waves. The description of background wind waves and their transformation in nonuniform medium is based on solution of the wave actio...

Remote sensors operating at electromagnetic wavelengths cannot significantly penetrate ocean water but are effective at observing surface phenomena (such as waves andwinds). Radar remote sensing can also be used to measure ocean currents and the presence of surfactants or slicks. These capabilities are presently being exploited to track the Gulf of Mexico oil spill, for example. For radars tran...

A Boussinesq-type wave model is developed to numerically investigate the breaking waves and wave-induced currents. All the nonlinear terms are retained in the governing equations to keep fully nonlinearity characteristics and it hence more suitable to describe breaking waves with strong nonlinearity in the nearshore region. The Boussinesq equations are firstly extended to incorporate wave break...

Laboratory measurements of the fine space-time structure of short gravity-capillary waves, as well as Ku-band scattering at grazing and moderate incidence from spilling and plunging breaking waves in a wave channel are presented. Unsteady breaking waves are generated by focusing the waves in space and time. A scanning laser slope gauge was used for measuring short waves of wavelength 0.2-20cm, ...