This document contains information about the fundamentals of beach profiles and is intended to help teachers improve their content knowledge of ocean wave forces and coastal geomorphic response. Background addresses some of the basic information about waves and the beach profile. Methods of Measuring Beach Profiles presents the history of how coastal scientists have developed techniques of meas...

The theory of Battisti and Clarke (1982) to calculate analytically barotropic tidal currents across 'smooth' continental margin topography is shown to be valid near shore on 'nonsmooth' continental shelves. The theory includes longshore gradients and friction and produces formulae easily evaluated with coastal sea level data. The tidal currents across three such shelves (West Florida, south of ...

Field experiments in the surfzone were conducted on a meso-tidal beach stretch between Sinquerim and Baga off Goa India's central west coast. Surfzone waves currents measured using an array of seabird wave tide gauges Aanderaa RCM9 current meters. Rip observed prominently this with increased intensity during ebb tide. Six longshore prediction equations are tested for their suitability region. T...