The microwave backscattering of the sea surface is investigated with the wedge-shaped breaking waves for the super events at low grazing angles (LGA). According to the relationship between the wave breaking and the whitecap, the finite three-dimensional wedges are utilized to approximately model the breaking waves, of which the spatial distribution is simulated with whitecap coverage. The phase...

Previous studies on wave-induced pore pressure in a porous seabed mainly focused non-breaking regular waves, e.g., Airy linear waves or Stokes non-linear waves. In this study, breaking-wave induced response sandy was physically simulated with large wave flume. The generated by superimposing series of longer onto the foregoing shorter at specified location. Water surface elevations and correspon...

A model of surface waves generated on deep water by strong winds is proposed. A two-layer approximation is adopted, in which a shallow turbulent layer overlies the lower, infinitely deep layer. The dynamics of the upper layer, which is directly exposed to the wind, are nonlinear and coupled to the linear dynamics in the deep fluid. The authors demonstrate that in such a system there exist stead...

Parametrically excited surface waves (Faraday waves) are studied near the threshold for breaking. The breaking state ejects droplets from wave peaks when the applied forcing exceeds an acceleration threshold. The rate of breaking events approaches zero gradually with decreasing acceleration. Two properties of these ejections were studied around the ejection threshold. Analysis of the ejection r...

A one-dimensional hybrid numerical model is presented of a shallow-water flume with an incorporated piston paddle. The hybrid model is based on the improved Boussinesq equations by Madsen and Sørensen (1992) and the nonlinear shallow water equations. It is suitable for breaking and non-breaking waves and requires only two adjustable parameters: a friction coefficient and a wave breaking paramet...

We present an experimental characterization of the effects of turbulence and breaking gravity waves on air-water gas exchange in standing waves. We identify two regimes that govern aeration rates: turbulent transport when no wave breaking occurs and bubble dominated transport when wave breaking occurs. In both regimes, we correlate the qualitative changes in the aeration rate with corresponding...

A 2D finite element model for the solution of wave equations is developed. The fluid is considered as incompressible and irrotational. This is a difficult mathematical problem to solve numerically as well as analytically because the condition of the dynamic boundary (Bernoulli’s equation) on the free surface is not fixed and varies with time. The finite element technique is applied to solve non...

The FAIRS experiment took place aboard R/P FLIP from 15 September to 15 October 2000 approximately 120 nautical miles off Monterey, California. Our approach was to use both the passive and the active infrared techniques to determine the extent to which our laboratory findings are relevant to the field. Over the past several years, we have used these techniques to investigate wave breaking on sp...

The Ostrovsky–Hunter equation governs evolution of shallow water waves on a rotating fluid in the limit of small high-frequency dispersion. Sufficient conditions for the wave breaking in the Ostrovsky–Hunter equation are found both on an infinite line and in a periodic domain. Using the method of characteristics, we also specify the blow-up rate at which the waves break. Numerical illustrations...

Finite volume schemes are commonly used to construct approximate solutions to conservation laws. In this study we extend the framework of the finite volume methods to dispersive water wave models, in particular to Boussinesq type systems. We focus mainly on the application of the method to bidirectional nonlinear, dispersive wave propagation in one space dimension. Special emphasis is given to ...