نتایج جستجو برای: breaking waves

تعداد نتایج: 156065  

2008
Adrian Constantin

Standing on a gently sloping straight beach, it is a matter of observation that various waveforms propagate on the surface of the sea. Among these we find edge waves water waves that progress along the shoreline. These waves, often difficult to visualize (this has, probably, prevented the regarding of this waveform as important for a long time), are coastal trapped, i.e. their amplitude is maxi...

2016
W. Kendall Melville Alexey V. Fedorov

Recent field observations and modelling of breaking surface gravity waves suggest that air-entraining breaking is not sufficiently dissipative of surface gravity waves to balance the dynamics of wind-wave growth and nonlinear interactions with dissipation for the shorter gravity waves of O(10) cm wavelength. Theories of parasitic capillary waves that form at the crest and forward face of shorte...

2010
A. I. Chugunov C. J. Horowitz

The breaking stress (the maximum of the stress–strain curve) of neutron star crust is important for neutron star physics including pulsar glitches, emission of gravitational waves from static mountains and flares from star quakes. We perform many molecular dynamic simulations of the breaking stress at different coupling parameters (inverse temperatures) and strain rates. We describe our results...

2007
Ellen E. Lettvin

The objectives of this project are to understand, quantify and model the factors that influence the SAR signature of internal waves (IWs) using in situ and remote measurements. To accomplish this we have been studying the variables that impact the both the surface roughness and the corresponding radar backscattering cross section. Previous efforts focused on modeling the the modulation of surfa...

2004
Stéphan T. Grilli Stéphane Abadie

This research deals with the validation of fluid dynamic models, used for simulating shoaling and breaking solitary waves on slopes, based on experiments performed at the Ecole Supérieure d’Ingénieurs de Marseille’s (ESIM) laboratory. A separate paper, also presented at this conference, reports on experiments. In a first part of this work, a fully nonlinear potential flow model based on a Bound...

2016
Pierre Deymier Keith Runge

We present examples of phononic structures that beak four types of symmetry, namely timereversal symmetry, parity symmetry, chiral symmetry and particle-hole symmetry. The implications of symmetry breaking on the topology of the acoustic wave function in the space of its Eigen values are discussed. Particular attention is focused on the torsional topology of acoustic waves in periodic media in ...

1993
James T. Kirby

Methods used in parabolic refraction-diiraction models for computing the evolution of monochromatic waves in the nearshore zone are used to construct a model for spectral wave conditions. The two dimensional spectrum is divided into discrete wave components and the individual wave components are computed simultaneously in the domain using parabolic models for each wave component. Statistical qu...

2006
Alexis Mouche Danièle Hauser Vladimir Kudryavtsev

An analysis of radar observations in C band combined with models is proposed to study some of the ocean surface properties and their relation with the sea surface backscatter. The electromagnetic part of the models is of different kinds: composite Bragg model with or without including effect of wave breaking zones on the normalized radar cross-section (NRCS), geometrical optics approximation an...

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