This paper describes the numerical model BOUSS-WMH (BOUSSinesq Wave Model for Harbours), a finite element model for nonlinear wave propagation near shore and into harbors. It is based upon an extended version of the Boussinesq equations to which terms were added to generate regular or irregular waves inside the numerical domain, absorb outgoing waves, partially reflect waves at physical boundar...

As the coupling in a heterogeneous excitable medium is reduced, three different types of behavior are encountered: plane waves propagate without breaking up, plane waves break up into spiral waves, and plane waves block. We illustrate these phenomena in monolayers of chick embryonic heart cells using calcium sensitive fluorescent dyes. Following the addition of heptanol, an agent that reduces t...

Laboratory experiment is conducted to investigate the long waves generated by time-varying breakpoint. We focus our attention on the variation of plunging point as well as the variation of breaking point. The results show that free long waves (BFLW) are really generated by the variation of the starting point of wave set-up which coincide with the plunging point and that the BFLW observed can be...

Waves on the ocean are generated well away from any shoreline and travel under a prevailing wind towards a distant shore. These deep-water waves eventually become shallow-water waves and break near the shore creating a turbulent surf front of bubbles, foam and spray, encompassing secondary breaking and smaller splashing waves. Human surfers can propel themselves shorewards on these breakers or ...

New method for numerical simulation of potential flows with a free surface of two-dimensional fluid, based on combination of the conformal mapping and Fourier Transform is proposed. The method is efficient for study of strongly nonlinear effects in gravity waves including wave breaking and formation of rogue waves.  2002 Éditions scientifiques et médicales Elsevier SAS. All rights reserved.

This study aimed to assess the impacts of heat waves during the summer of 2015 on mortality in the Czech Republic and to compare them with those of heat waves back to the previous record-breaking summer of 1994. We analyzed daily natural-cause mortality across the country's entire population. A mortality baseline was determined using generalized additive models adjusted for long-term trends, se...

Multiscale composite models based on the Bragg theOly are widely used to study the U1LlI<,,'l~"~' radar cross-section (NRCS) over the sea sllrface. However, these models are able to correctly reproduce the NRCS in ail configurations and wind wave conditions. have developed a physical model that takes into account, not only the Bragg nisl11, but also the non-Bragg scattering l11echanisl11 associ...

A method of Parity-Time (PT)-symmetry analysis is introduced to study the high dimensional, complicated parameter space drift wave instabilities. We show that spontaneous PT-symmetry breaking leads Ion Temperature Gradient (ITG) instability waves, and collisional result explicit breaking. new unstable induced by finite collisionality identified. It also found gradients ion temperature density c...