Kaanapali beach is a well-defined littoral cell of carbonate sand extending 2 km south from Black Rock (a basalt headland) to Hanakao’o Point. The beach experiences dynamic seasonal shoreline change forced by longshore transport from two dominant swell regimes. In summer, south swells (Hs = 1-2 m Tp = 14-25 s) drive sand to the north, while in winter, north swells (Hs = 5-8 m Tp = 14-20 s) driv...

i ii Abstract A model is proposed for the formation and evolution of three-dimensional sedimen-tary structures such as longshore sand ridges on the continental shelf in water deeper than that of the shoaling region. Owing to the striking similarity between the bar spacing and the length scales in which interactions among the most energetic modes of shallow water waves take place, we argue that ...

This paper presents and evaluates the numerical solution of a coupled system of equations that arises in a model for the formation and evolution of three-dimensional longshore sand ridges. The model is based on the interaction between surrcial or internal weakly nonlinear shallow-water waves, having weak spanwise spatial dependence, and the deformable bottom topography. The presentation of the ...

A method for the shallow water equations governing wave motions in the nearshore environment is presented. Spatial derivatives contained in these equations are computed using spectral collocation methods. A high-order time integration scheme is used to compute the time evolution of the velocities and water surface elevation given initial conditions. The model domain extends from the shoreline t...

A predominant sigmoidal clinoform deposit extends from the Yangtze River mouth southwards 800 km along the Chinese coast. This clinoform is thickest ( 40m) between the 20 and 30m isobaths and progressively thins offshore, reaching water depths of 60 and 90m and distances up to 100 km offshore. Clay mineral, heavy metal, geochemical and grain-size analyses indicate that the Yangtze River is the ...

Examples of heavy mineral placer deposits are presented in which wave reflection, refraction, diffraction and resonance would appear to have played a major concentrating role. Their geometry is compared with the computer generated patterns predicted for the reflection, refraction and diffraction of surface waves moving over fairly simple, idealised bathymetries. Much of this work is founded on ...