نتایج جستجو برای: breaking waves
تعداد نتایج: 156065 فیلتر نتایج به سال:
We propose a semi-analytic approach to estimate mixing induced by internal solitary waves (ISWs) breaking over sloping boundary. The theoretical framework we develop describes the energetics of stratified fluid flow during interaction ISWs with slope. In particular, through both Ozmidov and Thorpe lengthscales derive heuristic expression for efficiency, valid plunging plunging-collapsing breake...
PURPOSE: The Coastal and Hydraulics Engineering Technical Note (CHETN) herein describes a method for estimating the percentage of sand-sized material placed in suspension by breaking waves and carried by a cross-channel current to either fall into a navigation channel or travel across it. Required inputs are channel width and depth, depth in the vicinity of the channel, depth-averaged current v...
[1] We present a numerical investigation of longshore currents driven by breaking waves on barred beaches. Alongshore inhomogeneity in the wave envelope or bathymetry leads to the generation of strong dipolar structures when the waves are breaking. The dynamics of these structures transfer momentum from the bar of the beach into the trough. This study is pursued using a new model that allows lo...
This paper presents a novel combination of synchronous, large coverage marine radar, calibrated pulsed Doppler radar, and video remote sensing observations from a nearshore field site. The data enable the analysis of the evolution and characteristics of the remotely observed signals from surf zone waves. The combination of different remote sensors allows a better discrimination between breaking...
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