Formulation and evaluation of a water-in-oil cream containing herbal active ingredients and ferulic acid

BACKGROUND AND AIMS The main aims of the present study were to formulate an anti-age cream based on vegetal ingredients and ferulic acid and to evaluate the physical characteristics and the efficacy of the cream. METHODS The active ingredients were Centella asiatica oil, Spilanthes acmella oil, Zingiber officinale extract and ferulic acid. Formulation 1 (F1) was prepared using glyceryl stearate and Ceteareth-25® as emulsifiers and Formulation 2 (F2) using glyceryl stearate and potassium cetyl phosphate, all other ingredients remaining the same. The physical characterization of the creams was performed and the following parameters were analyzed: viscosity, oil droplet size, polydispersity index; also, texture analysis was performed. The anti-aging effect of the F2 was evaluated by assessing the cutaneous density before and after cream application using DUB-cutis® scanner. RESULTS The mean diameter of oil drops was 10.26±4.72 mm (F1) and 22.72±7.93 mm (F2) and the polydispersity index was 35.4% and 45.7%, respectively. The mean values for consistency were 594.7±10.3 g (F1) and 300.5±14.5 g (F2), the average values for adhesion were 15.61±0.8 mJ (F1) and 22.25±4.3 mJ (F2), for firmness were 51.2±0.8 g (F1) and 30.3±4.3 g (F2) and the spreadability had values between 72.63 mm2 (F1) and 73.3 mm2 (F2). In vivo study revealed that the mean values of the cutaneous density increased from 9.21±1.39 % to 12.50±1.44 % after 8 weeks of cream application. The herbal ingredients incorporated in the O/W cream base for the antioxidant activity and anti-wrinkle effect, induced changes of the cutaneous density, an important parameter which quantifies the regeneration process of the skin. CONCLUSIONS An anti-age cream containing herbal active ingredients and ferulic acid with appropriate physical characteristics was obtained. In vivo study of clinical efficacy revealed a positive effect on skin density, which increased after 8 weeks of cream application.