Hele-Shaw Beach Creation by Breaking Waves A mathematics-inspired experiment
نویسندگان
چکیده
Fundamentals of nonlinear wave-particle interactions are studied in a Hele-Shaw configuration with wave breaking and a dynamic bed. To design this configuration, we determine, mathematically, the gap width which allows inertial flows to survive the viscous damping due to the side walls. Damped wave sloshing experiments compared with simulations confirm that width-averaged potential-flow models with linear momentum damping are adequately capturing the large scale nonlinear wave motion. Subsequently, we show that the four types of wave breaking on real-world beaches also emerge on Hele-Shaw laboratory beaches, albeit in idealized forms. Finally, an experimental parameter study is undertaken to quantify the formation of quasisteady beach morphologies due to nonlinear, breaking waves: berm or dune, beach and sandbar formation are all classified. Our research reveals that the We acknowledge technical assistance from Gert-Wim Bruggert, and financial support from the MultiScale Mechanics and Physics of Fluids groups of Stefan Luding and Detlef Lohse (University of Twente), respectively, as well as the Stichting Free Flow Foundation (O.B.,
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