Propaganda in Havana: The Politics of Public Space and Collective Memory in the Socialist City

Preface It felt like the last chance. Fidel Castro, because of his illness, was no longer the official head of state and it seemed as though Cuba was ready for transition. Four years had passed since my last visit to Havana, and I expected some change. After a lot of unnecessary anxiety and two passes over my destination in the circuitous route from Philadelphia to Cuba via Kingston, I was met with a feeling of calm at Jose Marti International Airport. From America, Cuba seems like another world. There is a feeling of discontinuity when traveling there. People describe Havana as a time capsule, but it feels cosmopolitan. There is no doubt that things are going to change in Cuba. They already are. This project was timely in that sense. It was all about time. The moment in history that I studied Havana seems crucial. But every moment on the island is made to feel that way. This project is nothing more than a snapshot of a city. The image that I describe in the following pages is a candid one. There are many contradictions and questions because a city is impossible to know and describe thoroughly. But something is undoubtedly unique about Havana. It cannot be fully understood. That is why I keep going back. I believe that the Cuban capitol has something to tell us about the nature of cities. Every person I know that has been there comes back with a photograph of a propaganda billboard. Usually it's the one on the Malecón in front of the old American Embassy with a cartoon of Uncle Sam. That is the only evidence of socialism to the casual viewer. This project is about what is behind that image. Liberal American travelers to Cuba have a curious relationship with the place. It is supposed to be something like utopia. Most would have thought that paradise had better tasting food. People say they need to get to Cuba before… it changes. It should change, though. It is as if Cuba is the last hope for some. And Cubans continue to bear that heavy burden of hope. Propaganda in Havana displays ideals that most of us can agree with. That is why it is so interesting, because many believe it. I want to thank my good friend Matt Beagle for accompanying me and for watching the bikes as we rode all over …