Silicones as Alternatives to Hydrocarbons in Personal Care Formulations

The use of silicones in personal care products has been expanding rapidly. A significant portion of this increased use has been in place of hydrocarbons. For at least 15 years, silicones have been incorporated into personal care products as a partial replacement or improvement additive for several classes of organic compounds traditionally used as ingredients in cosmetics and toiletries. This movement from hydrocarbons to silicones has been ongoing, driven by several market forces, and at an increasing rate. Most of the hydrocarbons affected were from categories of fatty chemicals, including the esters, acids, and alcohols. Cost differential has been narrowing as the volume of silicone used increases and the demand for greater purity has added cost to some organics. When the added value of sensory and functional benefits is considered, the balance of total value is frequently in favor of silicones. The flexible functional and sensory capabilities of silicones make them an interesting candidate for the reduction of organic materials in cosmetic and toiletry formulations. This presentation provides a useful comparison between silicones and several of the hydrocarbon classes of materials from sensory, functional, and environmental perspectives. In addition, formulation examples from various personal care product segments illustrate how silicones can help meet increasingly stringent marketplace needs. Introduction Over the past 15 years, silicones have been evaluated and used as substitutes or enhancements for several classes of organic materials. Various organic ingredients such as esters, alcohols, and fatty compounds have been affected by silicone technology. Some replacement has occurred in the following product segments: Segment Material Replaced by Silicones Antiperspirant Ester Deodorant Ethanol Sunscreen Mineral oil Color cosmetics Ethanol, mineral spirits Fragrance Ethanol Skin care Mineral oil, esters, fatty compounds Recently, the group of materials described by the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association (CTFA) as hydrocarbons has been the focus of more active replacement efforts. The CTFA describes these materials as a group of compounds containing only carbon and hydrogen, mostly derived from petroleum. As a rule, they are chemically inert and may contain aliphatic, alicyclic, and aromatic compounds. Pressure to replace hydrocarbons in personal care products is growing as a result of several factors, including: l A demand for improved functional performance, such as moisturization l Interest in the enhanced therapeutic value offered by protective and non-comedogenic products l Regulatory issues, such as volatile organic compound (VOC) restrictions l A shift in sensory preferences on the part of consumers l Consumer attitudes, including concern over petroleum derivatives l Availability and understanding of alternative materials