On the Limitations of Blind Tasting

نویسنده

  • Jonathan Cohen
چکیده

Blind tasting — tasting without knowing the wine’s producer, origin, or other details obtainable from the wine’s label— has become something of a fetish in the wine world. We are told, repeatedly and insistently, that blind tasting is the best, most neutral, least biased, and most honest evaluative procedure, and one that should be employed to the exclusion of non-blind/sighted tasting (which, in turn, is typically disparaged as confused, biased, or dishonest). Professional evaluators (e.g., the tasting panel of the Wine Spectator, the Grand Jury Européen, virtually every judging panel in competitive wine events) routinely advertise that they use blind tasting exclusively. Wine books and tasting manuals at all levels consistently emphasize the importance of blind tasting. Thus, Michael Broadbent, perhaps the most prolific author of tasting notes in history, writes that “It is my firm opinion . . . that to assess the qualities of a wine by tasting it completely blind, without any hint of what it might be, is the most useful and salutary discipline that any self-respecting taster can be given” (quoted in ?, 156). Or, again, Ronald Jackson, in his industry-standard textbook on wine tasting, asserts categorically that “Tastings should always be conducted blind, usually with only the names of the wine noted in advance” (?, 334). I believe this is a mistake. Although blind tasting undeniably comes with some benefits, it also carries significant but insufficiently appreciated disadvantages relative to sighted tasting. It is my hope that recognizing these, rather than uniformly favoring blind tasting, will help us choose tasting procedures suited to our aims on particular occasions, and thereby better enjoy the full range of experiences available in our vinous encounters.

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تاریخ انتشار 2013