Wave run-up on a high-energy dissipative beach
نویسندگان
چکیده
منابع مشابه
Physical simulation of resonant wave run-up on a beach
Nonlinear wave run-up on the beach caused by a harmonic wave maker located at some distance from the shore line is studied experimentally. It is revealed that under certain wave excitation frequencies, a significant increase in run-up amplification is observed. It is found that this amplification is due to the excitation of resonant mode in the region between the shoreline and wave maker. Frequ...
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Even though wave run-up is not a new subject, until recently analytical and numerical studies of long wave run-up on a plane beach have failed to identify the existence of resonant regimes. Furthermore, it was a common belief that the leading wave will result in the maximum runup. Stefanakis et al. (2011) underlined the importance of resonant long wave interactions during run-up and run-down. I...
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A numerical method for free-surface flow is presented at the aim of studying water waves in coastal areas. The method builds on the nonlinear shallow water equations and utilizes a non-hydrostatic pressure term to describe short waves. A vertical boundary-fitted grid is used with the water depth divided into a number of layers. A compact finite difference scheme is employed that takes into acco...
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Natural geophysical timeseries bear the signature of a number of complex, possibly inseparable, and generally unknown combination of linear, stable non-linear and chaotic processes. Quantifying the relative contribution of, in particular, the non-linear components will allow improved modelling and prediction of natural systems, or at least define some limitations on predictability. However, dif...
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The estimation of the maximum wave run-up height is a problem of practical importance. Most of the analytical and numerical studies are limited to a constant slope plain shore and to the classical nonlinear shallow water equations. However, in nature the shore is characterized by some roughness. In order to take into account the effects of the bottom rugosity, various ad hoc friction terms are ...
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ژورنال
عنوان ژورنال: Journal of Geophysical Research
سال: 2004
ISSN: 0148-0227
DOI: 10.1029/2003jc002160