منابع مشابه
Exact Solitary Wave Solutions in Shallow Water
Long's equation describes stationary flows to all orders of nonlinearity and dispersion. Dissipation is neglected. In this paper, Long's equation is used to attempt to model the propagation of a solibore -a train of internal waves in shallow water at the deepening phase of the internal tide. 1. The Solibore Phenomenon The internal tide in shallow water often has a sawtooth shape rather than a s...
متن کاملA Shallow Water Spectral Wave Model
A shallow water spectral wave prediction model based on a numerical solution of the radiative transfer equation is presented. The model is second generation and uses a simple yet effective representation for the nonlinear source term. In addition, the model pays particular attention to the shallow water processes of refraction, shoaling, bottom friction, and wave breaking. The flexibility of th...
متن کاملMeasurements of Shallow Water Breaking Wave Rollers
Large scale laboratory experiments concerning breaking wave propagation over a fixed-bed, barred beach were performed. The primary observations of interest were video intensity time series obtained from a set of high-resolution video cameras in order to study the onset of wave breaking in shallow water and wave roller transformation in the surf zone. The approach is new in the sense that the an...
متن کاملOn asymptotically equivalent shallow water wave equations
The integrable 3rd-order Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation emerges uniquely at linear order in the asymptotic expansion for unidirectional shallow water waves. However, at quadratic order, this asymptotic expansion produces an entire family of shallow water wave equations that are asymptotically equivalent to each other, under a group of nonlinear, nonlocal, normal-form transformations introduce...
متن کاملEstimation of wave directional spreading in shallow water
This paper describes wave directional spreading in shallow water. Waves were measured for a period of 2 months using the Datawell directional waverider buoy at 15 m water depth on the east coast of India in the Bay of Bengal. The study also showed that in shallow water wave directional spreading was narrowest at peak frequency and widened towards lower and higher frequencies. The wind direction...
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ژورنال
عنوان ژورنال: Coastal Engineering Proceedings
سال: 1970
ISSN: 2156-1028,0589-087X
DOI: 10.9753/icce.v12.10