Shortwave Sand Transport in the Shallow Surf Zone
نویسندگان
چکیده
منابع مشابه
The Vertical Structure of Shallow Water Flow in the Surf Zone and Inner Shelf
1. Theoretical investigations of the vertical structure of mean currents, tidal flows, and low frequency (infragravity) oscillations on the inner shelf and inside the surf zone. This work expands on recent theoretical developments for shear instabilities that follow methodology developed for tidal flows on the continental shelf. Results will be compared with field data examined as part of the s...
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[1] Turbulence in the surf zone, the shallow region adjacent to the shoreline, has a key role in beach erosion, fertilization, dispersal, and larval settlement of marine invertebrates, and microbial contamination dilution in beach waters. Breakingwave generated (the dominant source) surf zone turbulence is understood poorly. A new surf zone turbulent dissipation rate scaling is derived, that co...
متن کاملTransport of larvae and detritus across the surf zone of a steep reflective pocket beach
Larvae of many intertidal species develop offshore and must cross the surf zone to complete their onshore migration to adult habitats. Depending on hydrodynamics, the surf zone may limit this migration, especially on reflective rocky shores. As a logistically tractable analog of a rocky shore environment, we carried out a comprehensive biological and physical study of the hydrodynamics of a ste...
متن کاملPrediction of sand transport rates by waves and currents in the coastal zone
The predictions of a sand transport research model and Bijker’s (J. Waterways, Harbours Coastal Eng. Div. ASCE 97 (WW4) (1971) 687) engineering model are compared with data obtained in wave-current conditions at three field sites. A key element in the present study is that the bed roughness at the three sites has been estimated from predictions of the sand ripple dimensions. The comparisons bet...
متن کاملA 2.5D Model for Sand Transport in a Shallow Sea: Effect of Ekman Veering
A process-based sediment transport model is presented that combines the knowledge of sediment transport in rivers and estuaries with the understanding of physical processes specific for the shelf seas. Due to formation of bottom Ekman spiral, the near-bottom current and hence the sediment transport deviate from the direction of surface current. The model takes into account velocity veering indu...
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ژورنال
عنوان ژورنال: Journal of Geophysical Research: Earth Surface
سال: 2018
ISSN: 2169-9003,2169-9011
DOI: 10.1029/2017jf004425