Nonlinear edge waves and shallow-water theory

Nonlinear edge waves and shallow-water theory

Shallow Water Waves and Solitary Waves

Glossary Deep water A surface wave is said to be in deep water if its wavelength is much shorter than the local water depth. Internal wave A internal wave travels within the interior of a fluid. The maximum velocity and maximum amplitude occur within the fluid or at an internal boundary (interface). Internal waves depend on the density-stratification of the fluid. Shallow water A surface wave i...

Nonlinear refraction-diffraction of waves in shallow water

The parabolic approximation is developed to study the combined refraction/diffraction of weakly nonlinear shallow-water waves. Two methods of approach are used. In the first method Boussinesq equations are used to derive evolution equations for spectral-wave components in a slowly varying two-dimensional domain. The second method modifies the K-P equation (Kadomtsev & Petviashvili 1970) to incl...

Expansion shock waves in regularized shallow-water theory.

We identify a new type of shock wave by constructing a stationary expansion shock solution of a class of regularized shallow-water equations that include the Benjamin-Bona-Mahony and Boussinesq equations. An expansion shock exhibits divergent characteristics, thereby contravening the classical Lax entropy condition. The persistence of the expansion shock in initial value problems is analysed an...

On Nonlinear Water Waves in a Channel