Non‐hydrostatic, Non‐linear Processes in the Surf Zone

Scaling surf zone turbulence

[1] Turbulence in the surf zone, the shallow region adjacent to the shoreline, has a key role in beach erosion, fertilization, dispersal, and larval settlement of marine invertebrates, and microbial contamination dilution in beach waters. Breakingwave generated (the dominant source) surf zone turbulence is understood poorly. A new surf zone turbulent dissipation rate scaling is derived, that co...

On the Choice of Random Wave Simulation in the Surf Zone Processes

In this paper, the two common approaches to account for wave randomness, the spectral approach and the wave-bywave approach, are compared through numerical experiments conducted with the coupling of a surf zone hydrodynamic model and a bedload sediment transport model. Special attention is paid to the wave nonlinearity and net cross-shore bedload transport predictions. The two approaches are fo...

Prediction and assimilation of surf-zone processes using a Bayesian network

Nonhydrostatic and nonlinear contributions to the energy flux budget in nonlinear internal waves

[1] We use high-resolution two-dimensional simulations to model the generation and evolution of nonlinear internal waves formed as a result of the interaction of a first-mode internal wave field with idealized slopes. The derivation of the energy equation and the energy flux terms are presented. By employing an analysis of the distribution of the energy flux across the shelf break, we quantify ...

Wave Group Forcing of Low Frequency Surf Zone Motion

The nearshore potential vorticity balance of Bowen and Holman (1989) is expanded to include the forcing from wave group-induced radiation stresses. Model results suggest that the forcing from these radiation stresses can drive oscillations in the longshore current that have a spatial structure similar to linear shear instabilities of the longshore current. In addition, the forced response is ne...