منابع مشابه
Extreme wave run-up on a vertical cliff
Wave impact and run-up onto vertical obstacles constitutes one of the main phenomena which have to be taken into account in the design of coastal structures. From the linear wave theory we know that the wave height on a vertical wall is twice the incident wave amplitude. Weakly nonlinear theories bring some small corrections to this result. However, in the present study we show that certain sim...
متن کاملDispersive wave runup on non-uniform shores
Historically the finite volume methods have been developed for the numerical integration of conservation laws. In this study we present some recent results on the application of such schemes to dispersive PDEs. Namely, we solve numerically a representative of Boussinesq type equations in view of important applications to the coastal hydrodynamics. Numerical results of the runup of a moderate wa...
متن کاملEffect of wave frequency and directional spread on shoreline runup
[1] Wave breaking across the surf zone elevates the mean water level at the shoreline (setup), and drives fluctuations about the mean (runup). Runup often is divided into seaswell (0.04–0.3 Hz) and lower frequency infragravity (0.00– 0.04 Hz) components. With energetic incident waves, runup is dominated by infragravity frequencies, and total water levels (combined setup and runup) can exceed 3 ...
متن کاملPrePrint Repository Dispersive wave runup on non - uniform shores
Historically the finite volumemethods have been developed for the numerical integration of conservation laws. In this study we present some recent results on the application of such schemes to dispersive PDEs. Namely, we solve numerically a representative of Boussinesq type equations in view of important applications to the coastal hydrodynamics. Numerical results of the runup of a moderate wav...
متن کاملBoussinesq Modelling of Solitary Wave Propagation, Breaking, Runup and Overtopping
A one-dimensional hybrid numerical model is presented of a shallow-water flume with an incorporated piston paddle. The hybrid model is based on the improved Boussinesq equations by Madsen and Sørensen (1992) and the nonlinear shallow water equations. It is suitable for breaking and non-breaking waves and requires only two adjustable parameters: a friction coefficient and a wave breaking paramet...
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ژورنال
عنوان ژورنال: Geophysical Research Letters
سال: 2013
ISSN: 0094-8276
DOI: 10.1002/grl.50637