[1] A well-mixed water column is observed over a 20 m ridge in the central Bohai Sea, surrounded by stratified water of much colder temperatures. We use a three-dimensional model to investigate its formation mechanisms. The results show that both tidal and surface wave mixing are important for homogenizing the water column, the former reaching 10 m above the bottom and the latter penetrating 10...

The mechanics of rip currents are complex, involving interactions between waves, currents, water levels and the bathymetry, that present particular challenges for numerical models. Here, the effects of a grid-spacing dependent horizontal mixing on the wave-current interactions are studied. Near the shore, wave rays diverge from channels towards bar crests because of refraction by topography and...

I present a finite-difference method for modeling P-SV wave propagation in heterogeneous media. This is an extension of the method I previously proposed for modeling SH-wave propagation by using velocity and stress in a discrete grid. The two components of the velocity cannot be defined at the same node for a complete staggered grid: the stability condition and the P-wave phase velocity dispers...

A large, flat ultrasonic transmitter and a small receiver are developed for studies of material properties in acoustic transmission goniometry. While the character of the wave field produced by the transmitter can be considered as a plane wave as observed by the receiver, diffraction effects are noticeable near critical angles and result in the appearance of weak but detectable arrivals. Transm...

This paper presents an experimental study the influence of wave parameter on the damage of reshaping seawall, model tests have been performed in several water level conditions. The experiments of physical modeling of this research have been done in the flume of the Soil Conservation and Watershed Management Research Institute (SCWMRI). The waves applied to the structure model are irregular and ...