From research on stratospheric dynamics there has emerged what might prove to be some useful fresh ideas about the problem of water-wave generation by wind. As pointed out in an earlier contribution (1993), water waves can be systematically amplified by two irreversible, ratchet-like mechanisms that depend on spatio-temporal inhomogeneities, such as wind gustiness and wave groupiness. Neither m...

Storm surges cause coastal inundation due to setup of the water surface resulting from atmospheric pressure, surface winds and breaking waves. Here we show that during Typhoon Haiyan, the setup generated by breaking waves near the fringing-reef-protected town of Hernani, the Philippines, oscillated with the incidence of large and small wave groups, and steepened into a tsunami-like wave that ca...

all experiments in this study were carried out in a flume which was located in the hydraulic laboratory of technical faculty in guilan university. the wave flume was 12 m long, 0.5 m wide, 0.5 m high and equipped with a wave-producing system and ultrasonic sensors. the objectives of current experimental study are to investigate sediment transport, bed formation and sustainability of sandy beach...

We have added a new Figure 3, where we show two frequency spectra. The first spectrum (Figure 3 a) is in absence of the breaking waves, where the first peak indicates the edge wave frequency and the second peak indicates the surface elevation frequency. The second frequency spectrum (Figure 3 b) is plotted in presence of breaking wave and indicates the suppression of the peak for the edge wave ...

The practicality of common wave breaking criteria is reviewed. Video recordings of the sea surface taken from aboard R/P FLIP are used to extract breaking wave properties. The key quantity is Λ(c)dc, the length of breaking crests per unit area propagating with speeds in the range (c, c+ dc). Independent of wave field development, Λ(c) is found to peak at intermediate wave scales and to drop off...

A new radar imaging model of ocean current features is proposed. The simulated normalized radar cross section (NRCS) takes into account scattering from “regular” surfaces (by means of resonant Bragg scattering and specular reflections) and scattering from breaking waves. The description of background wind waves and their transformation in nonuniform medium is based on solution of the wave actio...

Finite volume schemes are commonly used to construct approximate solutions to conservation laws. In this study we extend the framework of the finite volume methods to dispersive water wave models, in particular to Boussinesq type systems. We focus mainly on the application of the method to bidirectional nonlinear, dispersive wave propagation in one space dimension. Special emphasis is given to ...

We investigate the stationary state of a model system evolving according to a modified focusing truncated nonlinear Schrödinger equation used to describe the envelope of Langmuir waves in a plasma. We restrict the system to have a finite number of normal modes each of which is in contact with a Langevin heat bath at temperature T . Arbitrarily large realizations of the field are prevented by re...

The superharmonic instability is pervasive in large-amplitude water-wave problems and numerical simulations have predicted a close connection between it and crest instabilities and wave breaking. In this paper we present a nonlinear theory, which is a generic nonlinear consequence of superharmonic instability. The theory predicts the nonlinear behaviour witnessed in numerics, and gives new info...