This paper presents the development of a new approach, based on wavelet spectrum analysis, for the detection of breaking waves in a time series of surface wave fluctuations. The approach is shown to be capable of producing equivalent wave breaking statistics as field measurements based on detection of whitecaps at a fixed point of observation. This wavelet-based approach is applicable to both d...

Shoaling of solitary waves on a uniform plane beach connected to a constant-depth wave tank is investigated numerically using the smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) method. The characteristics of water surface elevations have been analyzed for wave shoaling. To test the validity of the numerical model, the relative wave heights, the time histories of the free surface profiles are measured at...

We present an experimental characterization of the effects of turbulence and breaking gravity waves on air-water gas exchange in standing waves. We identify two regimes that govern aeration rates: turbulent transport when no wave breaking occurs and bubble dominated transport when wave breaking occurs. In both regimes, we correlate the qualitative changes in the aeration rate with corresponding...

Wave-breaking is studied analytically first and the results are compared with accurate numerical simulations of 3D wave-breaking. We focus on the time dependence of various quantities becoming singular at the onset of breaking. The power laws derived from general arguments and the singular behaviour of solutions of nonlinear hyperbolic differential equations are in excellent agreement with the ...

The wind tearing of breaking wave crests produces spume drops. The authors report preliminary laboratory data from direct and unambiguous observation of this process under various wind conditions using a video imaging technique. Results include the size distribution and production rates of these drops. The curves for production rates at different wind speeds merge effectively when normalized by...

[1] On the night of December 3rd, 2004 (UT day 338), we observed a significant acceleration of horizontal wind near 100 km between 0900 and 0915 UT accompanied by a temperature cooling at the same altitude and warming below it. The Lomb spectrum analysis of the raw dataset revealed that a gravity wavewith 1.5 hr periodwas significant between 0500 and 0900 UT, but blurred after 0900 UT, suggesti...

According to prevailing ideas, the formation of rogue waves and the onset of wave breaking share a common physical framework: energy focusing within nonlinear wave groups. For 2D (one horizontal spatial direction) wave packet evolution, this correspondence appears to be very close. However, the situation is less clear for 3D propagation, and in the open ocean, observed breaking of dominant wind...

The natural history of all substantial innovative medical procedures generally follows the same archetype. A new, potentially revolutionary treatment approach for a certain disease is introduced and initial first-in-men, feasibility, and safety studies are conducted by expert operators in highly specialized centers and selected patients. Given promising initial results, this triggers a wave of ...

In this paper, we focus on the implementation and verification of an extended Boussinesq model for surf zone hydrodynamics in two horizontal dimensions. The time-domain numerical model is based on the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations. As described in Part I of this two-part paper, the energy dissipation due to wave breaking is modeled by introducing an eddy viscosity term into the momentum ...