نتایج جستجو برای: surf zone
تعداد نتایج: 113275 فیلتر نتایج به سال:
11 The growth of megacusps as shoreline instabilities is investigated by ex-12 amining the coupling between wave transformation in the shoaling zone, long-13 shore transport in the surf zone, cross-shore transport, and morphological 14 evolution. This coupling is known to drive a potential positive feedback in 15 case of very oblique wave incidence, leading to an unstable shoreline and the 16 c...
Competent larvae of intertidal invertebrates have to migrate toward shore for settlement; however, their migration through the surf zone is not understood. We investigated larval transport mechanisms at a ripchanneled beach. Because tracking larvae in the surf zone is infeasible, we used a three-dimensional biophysical model to simulate the processes. The coupled model consists of a physical mo...
Long-term (1 month) observations of waves and currents over a natural reef are presented which show a strong correlation between offshore rms incident wave height and cross-reef currents at subtidal frequencies. The energy spectrum of the cross-reef currents shows a significant peak at twice the semidiurnal tidal frequency, while the spectrum of sea surface elevation over the reef flat shows no...
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