In this paper, the retrieving significant wave height from X-band marine radar images based on shadow statistics is investigated, since the retrieving accuracy can not be seriously affected by environmental factors and the method has the advantage of without any external reference to calibrate. However, the accuracy of the significant wave height estimated from the radar image acquired at the n...

Moving Particle Semi-implicit (MPS) which is a meshless and full Lagrangian method is employed to simulate nonlinear hydrodynamic behavior in a wide variety of engineering application including free surface water waves. In the present study, a numerical particle-based model is developed by the authors using MPS method to simulate different wave problems in the coastal waters. In this model flui...

We report theoretical and experimental evidence for transverse modulational instability of two counterpropagating beams in a photorefractive medium with no external feedback. A frequency detuning is applied to one of the beams in order to drive the system to instability. We perform a linear-stability analysis that allows for detuning of the counterpropagating pump beams in addition to an additi...

[1] Wave breaking across the surf zone elevates the mean water level at the shoreline (setup), and drives fluctuations about the mean (runup). Runup often is divided into seaswell (0.04–0.3 Hz) and lower frequency infragravity (0.00– 0.04 Hz) components. With energetic incident waves, runup is dominated by infragravity frequencies, and total water levels (combined setup and runup) can exceed 3 ...

To improve our understanding of Rayleigh wave generation and propagation in oceans, the effects of the presence of an island on the Rayleigh wave features are simulated. The analysis of results reveals Rayleigh wave generation in ocean near the island. In the water column, a decrease of amplitude in the vertical component and an increase of amplitude in the radial component of Rayleigh wave wit...