We study the long-time evolution of deep-water ocean surface waves in order to better understand the behavior of the nonlinear interaction processes that need to be accurately predicted in numerical models of wind-generated ocean surface waves. Of particular interest are those nonlinear interactions which are predicted by weak turbulence theory to result in a wave energy spectrum of the form of...

In recent years two nonlinear dispersive partial differential equations have attracted much attention due to their integrable structure. We prove that both equations arise in the modeling of the propagation of shallow water waves over a flat bed. The equations capture stronger nonlinear effects than the classical nonlinear dispersive Benjamin–Bona–Mahoney and Korteweg–de Vries equations. In par...

A specific, genuinely three-dimensional mechanism of rogue wave formation, in a late stage of the modulational instability of a perturbed Stokes deep-water wave, is recognized through numerical experiments. The simulations are based on fully nonlinear equations describing weakly three-dimensional potential flows of an ideal fluid with a free surface in terms of conformal variables. Spontaneous ...

A mathematical model is derived to describe the generation and propagation of water waves by a submarine landslide. The model consists of a depth-integrated continuity equation and momentum equations, in which the ground movement is the forcing function. These equations include full nonlinear, but weak frequencydispersion, e¬ects. The model is capable of describing wave propagation from relativ...

We observe the propagation dynamics of surface gravity water waves, having an Airy function envelope, in both the linear and the nonlinear regimes. In the linear regime, the shape of the envelope is preserved while propagating in an 18-m water tank, despite the inherent dispersion of the wave packet. The Airy wave function can propagate at a velocity that is slower (or faster if the Airy envelo...

A review of physical mechanisms of the rogue wave phenomenon is given. The data of marine observations as well as laboratory experiments are briefly discussed. They demonstrate that freak waves may appear in deep and shallow waters. Simple statistical analysis of the rogue wave probability based on the assumption of a Gaussian wave field is reproduced. In the context of water wave theories the ...

The time-dependent motion of water waves with a parametrically-defined free surface is mapped to a fixed time-independent rectangle by an arbitrary transformation. The emphasis is on the general properties of transformations. Special cases are algebraic transformations based on transfinite interpolation, conformal mappings, and transformations generated by nonlinear elliptic PDEs. The aim is to...

We present new results for the time reversal of nonlinear pulses traveling in a random medium, in particular for solitary waves. We consider long water waves propagating in the presence of a spatially random depth. Both hyperbolic and dispersive regimes are considered. We demonstrate that in the presence of properly scaled stochastic forcing the solution to the nonlinear (shallow water) conserv...

This paper describes the formulation, verification, and validation of a depth-integrated, non-hydrostatic model with a semi-implicit, finite difference scheme. The formulation builds on the nonlinear shallow-water equations and utilizes a non-hydrostatic pressure term to describe weakly dispersive waves. A momentumconserved advection scheme enables modeling of breaking waves without the aid of ...

In this paper, we derive an unsteady refraction–diffraction model for narrowbanded water waves for use in computing coupled wave–current motion in the nearshore. The end result is a variable coefficient, nonlinear Schrödinger-type wave driver (describing the envelope of narrow-banded incident waves) coupled to forced nonlinear shallow water equations (describing steady or unsteady mean flows dr...