[1] Measurements of Eulerian flow velocity obtained within the swash zone on a relatively steep beach face (gradient 1:23) are compared with an extended ballistic swash model. The model only requires a friction factor, beach slope and terminal bore velocity as input. The following model predictions matched well with observations: (1) The maximum Eulerian flow velocity is the shoreline velocity ...

A study is presented to examine the one-horizontal dimension effect of a shallow shelf obstacle on nonlinear long wave runup. Due to the large horizontal-vertical aspect ratio of this problem, it is not well suited for experimental analysis, and therefore this study is purely numerical. Simulations are performed for various incident wave conditions, obstacle height and widths, and final beach s...

Predicting shifts of species geographical ranges is a fundamental challenge for conservation ecologists given the great complexity of factors involved in setting range limits. Distributional patterns are frequently modelled to "simplify" species responses to the environment, yet the central mechanisms that drive a particular pattern are rarely understood. We evaluated the distributions of two s...

Shoaling of solitary waves on a uniform plane beach connected to a constant-depth wave tank is investigated numerically using the smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) method. The characteristics of water surface elevations have been analyzed for wave shoaling. To test the validity of the numerical model, the relative wave heights, the time histories of the free surface profiles are measured at...

We measured the flux of water through a beach at the head of Catalina Harbor, California, by monitoring the water table in a transect of wells perpendicular to the shoreline. During a 24-h period, the volume of sediments filled and drained, the tidal wedge, was 7.4 m3 (m shoreline)21, and the flux of water pumped across the beach face was 1.0 6 0.3 m3 d21 (m shoreline)21. 222Rn concentrations m...

In this paper, based on the random simulation method, three joint distribution beach stability monitoring stations are established. Combined with Gibbs sampling of is realized. By comparing measured and simulated stability, effectiveness prediction checked. The coastal assessment technology more than 1 year field data observation used to analyze stability. From observed data, it shown that ther...

Wave scattering over a sinusoidal bottom in the presence of vertically sheared current is investigated experimentally and compared with modified-mild slope model taking into account linear vertical shear. Waves were generated flume without or an opposing propagated patch 10 bars before dissipating on beach. The shear was controlled using perforated screen. Doppler shift resonant Bragg frequency...

Beach width is an important factor for tourists’ comfort, and the backshore a swash zone where sediment moves quickly. Artificial sandy beaches focus on beach stability evolution. This paper based artificial project in Haikou Bay, where, view of existing conditions, new type profile that can protect berm without being eroded by large wave action. Numerical simulation XBeach model were conducted...