A surf zone model is developed and tested based on the Oðl4Þ Boussinesq–Green–Naghdi system of Zhang et al. (2013). Because the model is fundamentally rotational, it uses fewer ad hoc assumptions than are found in many Boussinesq breaking wave systems. Eddy viscosity is used to describe both breaking dissipation and bottom friction, with breaking viscosities derived from the turbulent kinetic e...

Quantifying subsurface velocity in the surf-zone beneath shoaling/breaking/broken waves is critical to accurately predict nearshore processes such as sediment transport [Hsu and Hanes, 2004]. The in-situ instruments designed measure this where break, velocimeters, routinely get buried, broken, or lost surf-zone. This limits our ability collect field datasets of energetic wave conditions. To add...

Rip currents are shore-normal, narrow, seaward-flowing currents that originate within surf zone, extend seaward of the breaking region (rip head), and can obtain relatively high velocities. Within the last decade, there have been a significant number of laboratory and field observations within rip current systems. An overview of rip current kinematics based on these observations and the scienti...

Understanding wave dissipation in the nearshore is approached through modeling of field observations obtained across a variety of beach profiles and under a wide range of wave conditions. Wave breaking data are obtained remotely from video recordings of the surf zone, and image processing techniques subsequently used to detect and quantify the position and time of wave breaking occurrences over...