Flash rips and surf eddies are transient horizontal structures of the order 10 to 100 m, which can be generated in surfzone absence bathymetric irregularities. They traditionally evaluated a depth averaged setting involves intrinsic shear instabilities direct generation vorticity by short-crested waves. In this article, we revisit processes eddy with new three-dimensional wave resolution model ...

s and PresentationsGallagher, E.L. Computer Simulations of Megaripples in the Nearhsore. Paper and presentation atRiver Coastal and Estuarine Morphodynamics, Sep 2007.Gallagher, E.L., J. MacMahan, P. Russell, G. Masselink, Morphological Variability and Grain Sizefrom Digital Images. Presented at AGU Fall Meeting, San Francisco, Dec 2006.Gallagher, E.L., J. MacMahan, P. Russe...

This paper presents a machine learning approach for the automatic identification of rip currents with breaking waves. Rip are dangerous fast moving water that result in many deaths by sweeping people out to sea. Most do not know how recognize order avoid them. Furthermore, efforts forecast hindered lack observations help train and validate hazard models. The presence web cams smart phones have ...

Rip currents are the strong narrow seaward current produced by waves breaking on coast. Of many types of rip currents, present study investigates, experimentally and numerically, system wave reflection a finite-length shore-normal structure (corresponding to groin, jetty headland in real-word environment) with strength. The incident condition an obliquely propagating monochromatic surface gravi...

Abstract. Rip currents (“rips”) are the leading cause of drowning on surf beaches worldwide. A major contributing factor is that many beachgoers unable to identify rip currents. Previous research has attempted quantify beachgoers' identification ability using photographs without identifying whether this usefully translates into an a current in situ at beach. This study first compare and beach N...

[1] Absolute and relative diffusivity are measured on a rip-channeled beach using 30 position-tracking drifters released in clusters (4–12 drifters) deployed on 7 days with different wave forcing and tidal elevations at Sand City, Monterey Bay, California. Diffusivity and dispersion were found to be larger on days with rip current flow patterns and larger waves. Rip currents cause material to d...