In this paper, a moving boundary technique is developed to investigate wave runup and rundown with depth-integratedequations. Highly nonlinear and weakly dispersive equations are solved using a high-order finite difference scheme. An eddyviscosity model is adopted for wave breaking so as to investigate breaking wave runup. The moving boundary technique utilizeslinear extrapolation t...

B. Liu, J. Meyer-ter-Vehn, K-U. Bamberg, W. J. Ma, J. Liu, X. T. He, X. Q. Yan, and H. Ruhl Institute for Computational and Plasma Physics, Ludwig-Maximilian-Universitaet, 80333 Muenchen, Germany Key Laboratory of HEDP of the Ministry of Education, CAPT, and State Key Laboratory of Nuclear Physics and Technology, Peking University, Beijing 100871, China Institute of Applied Physics and Computat...

This paper presents a novel combination of synchronous, large coverage marine radar, calibrated pulsed Doppler radar, and video remote sensing observations from a nearshore field site. The data enable the analysis of the evolution and characteristics of the remotely observed signals from surf zone waves. The combination of different remote sensors allows a better discrimination between breaking...

An experimental study of the microwave backscatter and acoustic radiation from breaking waves is reported. It is found that the averaged microwave and acoustic measurements correlate with the dynamics of wave breaking. Both the mean-square acoustic pressure and the backscattered microwave power correlate with the wave slope and dissipation, for waves of moderate slope (S < 0.28). The backscatte...

Methods used in parabolic refraction-diiraction models for computing the evolution of monochromatic waves in the nearshore zone are used to construct a model for spectral wave conditions. The two dimensional spectrum is divided into discrete wave components and the individual wave components are computed simultaneously in the domain using parabolic models for each wave component. Statistical qu...

The development of a particular wintertime atmospheric circulation regime over the North Atlantic, comprising a northward shift of the North Atlantic eddy-driven jet stream and an associated strong and persistent ridge in the subtropics, is investigated. Several different methods of analysis are combined to describe the temporal evolution of the events and relate it to shifts in the phase of th...

The time of nonlinear wave collapse is computed numerically for the Hopf equation. Previous numerical criteria for locating the time of wave collapse are either computationally prohibitive to implement or give erroneous results. A new criterion for this purpose is developed analytically using asymptotic analysis of the wave shock development shortly after breaking. The criterion defines the wav...

Shoaling and breaking of solitary waves is computed on slopes 1:100 to 1:8 using an experimentally validated fully nonlinear wave model based on potential flow equations. Characteristics of waves are computed at and beyond the breaking point, and geometric self-similarities of breakers are discussed as a function of wave height and bottom slope. No wave breaks for slopes steeper than 12 . A bre...