The superharmonic instability is pervasive in large-amplitude water-wave problems and numerical simulations have predicted a close connection between it and crest instabilities and wave breaking. In this paper we present a nonlinear theory, which is a generic nonlinear consequence of superharmonic instability. The theory predicts the nonlinear behaviour witnessed in numerics, and gives new info...

Investigation of the waves generated by underwater disturbances gives precious insight into the effect of man-made underwater explosions as well as natural phenomena, such as underwater volcanoes or oceanic meteor impact. On the other hand, prediction of the effects of such waves on the coastal installations and structures is required for preparation worthwhile criteria for coastal engineers to...

We consider the problem of short-term prediction of rare, extreme water waves in irregular unidirectional fields, a critical topic for ocean structures and naval operations. One possible mechanism for the occurrence of such rare, unusually intense waves is nonlinear wave focusing. Recent results have demonstrated that random localizations of energy, induced by the linear dispersive mixing of di...

In this paper, a systematic, overall view of theories for periodic waves of permanent form, such as Stokes and cnoidal waves, is described first with their validity ranges. To deal with random waves, a method for estimating directional spectra is given. Then, various wave equations are introduced according to the assumptions included in their derivations. The mild-slope equation is derived for ...

solitons are ubiquitous and exist in almost every area from sky to bottom. for solitons to appear, the relevant equation of motion must be nonlinear. in the present study, we deal with the korteweg-devries (kdv), modied korteweg-de vries (mkdv) and regularised longwave (rlw) equations using homotopy perturbation method (hpm). the algorithm makes use of the hpm to determine the initial expansio...

We prove the linear and nonlinear instability of the line solitary water waves with respect to transverse perturbations.

A similar type of nonlocal nonlinear Schrödinger (NLS) system arises in both water waves and nonlinear optics. The nonlocality is due to a coupling between the first harmonic and a mean term. These systems are termed nonlinear Schrödinger with mean or NLSM systems. They were first derived in water waves by Benney-Roskes and later by Davey-Stewartson. Subsequently similar equations were derived ...

We present experimental observations of the hierarchy of rational breather solutions of the nonlinear Schrödinger equation (NLS) generated in a water wave tank. First, five breathers of the infinite hierarchy have been successfully generated, thus confirming the theoretical predictions of their existence. Breathers of orders higher than five appeared to be unstable relative to the wave-breaking...

i ii Abstract A model is proposed for the formation and evolution of three-dimensional sedimen-tary structures such as longshore sand ridges on the continental shelf in water deeper than that of the shoaling region. Owing to the striking similarity between the bar spacing and the length scales in which interactions among the most energetic modes of shallow water waves take place, we argue that ...

Linear gravity water waves are highly dispersive; therefore, the spreading of initially short wave trains characterizes water surface waves, and is a universal property of a dispersive medium. Only if there is sufficient nonlinearity does this envelope admit solitary solutions which do not spread and remain in fixed forms. Here, in contrast to the nonlinear localized wave packets, we present bo...