Among the various causes of coastal erosion, installation offshore breakwaters is considered main cause that influences most serious changes in shorelines. However, without a proper means for predicting such terrain changes, countries and regions continue to suffer from aftermath development projects on land. It has been confirmed parabolic bay shape equation (PBSE) can accurately predict shore...

Panrita Lopi Beach is one of the tourist sites that has potential as beach tourism, but this location not been tested to determine level ecotourism suitability analysis and development tourism management. This research was conducted in January 2022 using IKW SWOT methods. The results obtained based on Coastal Ecotourism Conformity Index parameter values for depth, type, width, slope current spe...

This paper explored numerical techniques to simulate the movement of an applied tracer plume in a laboratory beach subjected to tide. The MARUN model (Boufadel et al., 1999) was used. The movement of the tracer plume in the beach and the development of a transient seepage on the beach surface were modeled. By calibrating the results of the numerical model against the observed data, the laborato...

Foredune volume is an important factor for coastal safety and depends on the balance between erosion through wave attack and sediment input via aeolian transport. Dune erosion can be simulated with good accuracy, but predictions of aeolian sediment transport into the foredunes are still difficult to make. As part of a larger project that aims to model foredune development over decades, the goal...

The amount of wrack deposited and retained on a beach may be affected by the beach’s morphology. Conversely, wrack deposits have the potential to modify sediment dynamics on the beach face through accumulation and erosion of sediments around wrack deposits, and the incorporation of organic matter into beach sands. The aims of this chapter were thus to determine whether beach morphology differed...

Analytical methods for studying tsunami run-up become untenable when the tsunami wave runs on beaches. In this study, we use a finite-element procedure that includes the interaction between solid and fluid based on the potential flow theory to simulate the dynamics of tsunami wave induced by a thrust fault earthquake in order to investigate the effect of different beach slopes on the tsunami ru...

Until now, the analysis of long wave run-up on a plane beach has been focused on finding its maximum value, failing to capture the existence of resonant regimes. One-dimensional numerical simulations in the framework of the nonlinear shallow water equations are used to investigate the boundary value problem for plane and nontrivial beaches. Monochromatic waves, as well as virtual wave-gage reco...

Even though wave run-up is not a new subject, until recently analytical and numerical studies of long wave run-up on a plane beach have failed to identify the existence of resonant regimes. Furthermore, it was a common belief that the leading wave will result in the maximum runup. Stefanakis et al. (2011) underlined the importance of resonant long wave interactions during run-up and run-down. I...

The present paper reports the observations of waves and beach morphology at two sites in Japan. One is the HORS Research Pier and the other is the Niigata coast where multiple shore protection structures have been installed. An X-band nautical radar system was employed for this study. Radar echo images provided instantaneous distributions of wave crests and waterlines along the shore. They were...