نتایج جستجو برای: surf zone
تعداد نتایج: 113275 فیلتر نتایج به سال:
Longshore transport experiments were conducted in a large-scale physical model to evaluate predictions of the CERC formula with measured longshore sediment transport rates. It was found that the CERC formula produced reasonable estimates if the coefficient K was calibrated and applied to waves with similar breaker type. The calibrated K values are much smaller than values that are commonly used...
[1] Observations of velocity fluctuations with periods between about 4 and 30 min, thus longer than infragravity waves and referred to as very low frequency (VLF) surf zone motions, are described and compared with numerical simulations. The VLF motions discussed here exclude instabilities (generated by the wave‐driven alongshore current velocity shear) that occur in the same frequency range by ...
In this paper we augment the wave-averaged mean field equations commonly used to describe wave set-up and wave-induced mean currents in the near-shore zone, with an empirical sediment flux law depending only on the wave-induced mean current and mean total depth. This model allows the bottom to evolve slowly in time, and is used to examine how sediment transport affects wave set-up in the surf z...
Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV) measurements were performed in a wave tank under regular water waves propagating and breaking on a 1/15 sloping beach. To obtain more accurate measurements, the domain from the initiation of the breaking to the swash zone is splited in fourteen overlapping windows. The full field is reconstructed at each time step by gathering the fourteen synchronized PIV field...
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