ROBERTS, T.M.; WANG, P., and KRAUS, N.C., 2010. Limits of wave runup and corresponding beach-profile change from large-scale laboratory data. Journal of Coastal Research, 26(1), 184–198. West Palm Beach (Florida), ISSN 07490208. The dataset from the SUPERTANK laboratory experiment was analyzed to examine wave runup and the corresponding upper limit of beach-profile change. Thirty SUPERTANK runs...

Eulerian and Lagrangian measurements of orbital velocities in waves approaching a beach are analyzed with the goal understanding relative influence wave-by-wave variations mean-water level, wave height incipient breaking on mass transport properties surf zone. It is shown quantitatively that elevated local level correlates positively increased at free surface. ADV fluid column suggest depth-int...

The interaction of tidal currents with sea-floor topography results in the radiation of internal gravity waves into the ocean interior. These waves are called internal tides and their dissipation due to nonlinear wave breaking and concomitant threedimensional turbulence could play an important role in the mixing of the abyssal ocean, and hence in controlling the large-scale ocean circulation. A...

Starting from an improved mapping approach and a linear variable separation approach, new families of variable separation solutions (including solitary wave solutions, periodic wave solutions and rational function solutions) with arbitrary functions for the (2+1)-dimensional breaking soliton system are derived. Based on the derived solitary wave solution, we obtain some special folded localized...

We theoretically investigate the switching properties of nonlinear electron-wave directional couplers by applying the coupled mode theory. Analytical results for the probability of finding the electron wave in each waveguide, for arbitrary initial occupation of each waveguide, are presented. Our findings reveal that several technologically important cases can be achieved, such as significant or...

An improved single sided Rayleigh wave (R-wave) measurement was suggested to characterize surface breaking crack in steel reinforced concrete structures. Numerical simulations were performed to clarify the behavior of R-waves interacting with surface breaking crack with different depths and degrees of inclinations. Through analysis of simulation results, correlations between R-wave parameters o...

We present experimental observations of the hierarchy of rational breather solutions of the nonlinear Schrödinger equation (NLS) generated in a water wave tank. First, five breathers of the infinite hierarchy have been successfully generated, thus confirming the theoretical predictions of their existence. Breathers of orders higher than five appeared to be unstable relative to the wave-breaking...

Fundamentals of nonlinear wave-particle interactions are studied in a Hele-Shaw configuration with wave breaking and a dynamic bed. To design this configuration, we determine, mathematically, the gap width which allows inertial flows to survive the viscous damping due to the side walls. Damped wave sloshing experiments compared with simulations confirm that width-averaged potential-flow models ...