Plunging wave breaking is of great importance to ship hydrodynamics, including strong turbulence with large amounts of air entrainment, bubbles, droplets, jets, and spray. Previous experimental fluid dynamics (EFD) and computational fluid dynamics (CFD) studies on plunging wave breaking are mainly focused on the global structures of the wave breaking, such as wave elevation, jet, air cavity, an...

The present paper offers a numerical model which can be applied for the simulation of wave height distribution on a 2-D horizontal soft mud layer. The model is based on mild slope equations and it includes combined wave refraction, diffraction, reflection and breaking. The high energy dissipation of wave height due to the presence of fluid mud layer has also been simulated. Wave height attenuat...

An experimental and numerical study is presented to investigate the breaking criterion of Song and Banner J. Phys. Oceanogr. 32, 2541 2002 who suggested a threshold range of 1.4 0.1 10−3 for a predictive wave breaking parameter, measuring the rate of change in the local energy maximum and the local wave number, to differentiate between wave trains that lead to breaking and those that do not. To...

The analysis of wave breaking in shallow water has been on-going for almost 150 years. Numerous research papers have been published that investigate methods to predict breaking conditions and the geometric characteristics of breaking waves. This study presents a novel, safe, and low cost method to extract breaking wave properties from irregular waves in the surf zone, using optical and in-situ ...

A 2D finite element model for the solution of wave equations is developed. The fluid is considered as incompressible and irrotational. This is a difficult mathematical problem to solve numerically as well as analytically because the condition of the dynamic boundary (Bernoulli’s equation) on the free surface is not fixed and varies with time. The finite element technique is applied to solve non...

Wave-breaking often occurs when a short intense optical pulse propagates in a long normally dispersive optical fiber. This effect has conventionally been avoided in fiber (super-)continuum-based pulse compression because the accumulated frequency chirp of the output pulse cannot be fully compensated by a standard prism (or grating) pair. Thus, the spectral extending capability of the wave-break...

Breaking wave plays an important role in air-sea, wave-wave, wave-current, currentcurrent interaction. Wave breaking not only disturbs communication of sound chiefly because of the transient noise of the air-entrained bubbles. A useful analytical method, Gabor transformation, is applied due to its advantages over nonsymmetric and abrupt transition signals in breaking events. Numbers of bubbles ...

This paper examines the effect of current-induced breaking on the modeling of wave breaking dissipation near rip currents. Simulations using a set of existing wave transformation models are compared to existing laboratory measurements made on a bar/channel topography in the presence of both strong and weak rip currents. The model/data comparisons demonstrate that existing models can effectively...