ROBERTS, T.M.; WANG, P., and KRAUS, N.C., 2010. Limits of wave runup and corresponding beach-profile change from large-scale laboratory data. Journal of Coastal Research, 26(1), 184–198. West Palm Beach (Florida), ISSN 07490208. The dataset from the SUPERTANK laboratory experiment was analyzed to examine wave runup and the corresponding upper limit of beach-profile change. Thirty SUPERTANK runs...

In this paper we augment the wave-averaged mean field equations commonly used to describe wave set-up and wave-induced mean currents in the near-shore zone, with an empirical sediment flux law depending only on the wave-induced mean current and mean total depth. This model allows the bottom to evolve slowly in time, and is used to examine how sediment transport affects wave set-up in the surf z...

we measured the impacts of coastal modification on beach erosion and beach retreat conditions, selecting the miankaleh region as an example of a complex high-pressure free zone with high levels of engineering and tourism activity. nine sampling transects, stretching from the shoreline to a 10 meter depth, were defined and 36 sediment samples were collected from the sea bed at depths of 1, 3, 5,...

To help define the habitat of modern marine stromatolites, wave-dominated flow and sediment transport were studied in the shallow subtidal region (1-2 m depth) along the slightly concave, windward face of Highborne Cay, Exuma, Bahamas - the only face of the cay that includes a population of stromatolites concentrated near the region of highest curvature of the beach. Wave energy impacting this ...

This document contains information about the fundamentals of beach profiles and is intended to help teachers improve their content knowledge of ocean wave forces and coastal geomorphic response. Background addresses some of the basic information about waves and the beach profile. Methods of Measuring Beach Profiles presents the history of how coastal scientists have developed techniques of meas...

Sea-level rise induced by climate change may have significant impacts on the ecosystem functions and ecosystem services provided by intertidal sediment ecosystems. Accelerated sea-level rise is expected to lead to steeper beach slopes, coarser particle sizes and increased wave exposure, with consequent impacts on intertidal ecosystems. We examined the relationships between abundance, biomass, a...

Foredune volume is an important factor for coastal safety and depends on the balance between erosion through wave attack and sediment input via aeolian transport. Dune erosion can be simulated with good accuracy, but predictions of aeolian sediment transport into the foredunes are still difficult to make. As part of a larger project that aims to model foredune development over decades, the goal...

Cross-shore sediment transport is one of the effective factors in erosion and sedimentation, and affects dynamics of the beach profile in coastal areas. Furthermore, sandbar migration due to cross-shore sediment transport mostly effects beach nourishment, displacement of pollutions trapped in sediments, and organism and plants’ lives.  In this manuscript, sandbar migration due to cro...

New experimental laboratory data are presented on swash overtopping and sediment overwash on a truncated beach, approximating the conditions at the crest of a beach berm or inter-tidal ridge-runnel. The experiments provide a measure of the uprush sediment transport rate in the swash zone that is unaffected by the difficulties inherent in deploying instrumentation or sediment trapping techniques...

The ecotoxicological effects of oil spill from the grounded vessel MV River Princess on the intertidal benthic organisms of Sinquerim-Candolim beach at Goa were investigated. An intertidal expanse of 1 km on either side of the grounded vessel was selected to evaluate the concentration of total petroleum hydrocarbon (TPH) in the sediment and its effects on the composition, abundance and diversit...