The action of water waves moving over a porous seabed drives a seepage ̄ux into and out of the marine sediments. The volume of ̄uid exchange per wave cycle may a€ect the rate of contaminant transport in the sediments. In this paper, the dynamic response of the seabed to ocean waves is treated analytically on the basis of poro-elastic theory applied to a porous seabed. The seabed is modelled as ...

Ocean waves have multidirectional components. Most wave measurements are taken at a single point, and so fail to capture information about the relative directions of the wave components directly. Conventional means of directional estimation require a minimum of three concurrent time series of measurements at different spatial locations in order to derive information on local directional wave sp...

The tremendous increase in offshore operational activities demands improved waveforecasting techniques. With the knowledge of accurate wave conditions, it is possible to carry out the marine activities such as offshore drilling, naval operations, merchant vessel routing, nearshore construction, etc. more efficiently and safely. This paper describes an artificial neural network, namely recurrent...

About 40 years ago, Snodgrass and other oceanographers (1966) tracked ocean swell propagating across the entire Pacific Ocean. At about the same time, several investigators (including Benjamin and Feir) showed that a uniform train of plane waves of finite amplitude on deep water is unstable. Comparing these two results, each of which is highly cited, leads to the following question: in light of...

Within the last 20 years at least 200 super carriers have been lost due to severe weather conditions. In many cases the cause of the accidents is believed to be 'rogue waves', which are individual waves of exceptional wave height or abnormal shape. In situ measurements of extreme waves are scarce and most observations are reported by ship masters after the encounter. A normal Atlantic hurricane...

Fossil fuels are the major source to meet the world energy requirements but its rapidly diminishing rate and adverse effects on our ecological system are of major concern. Renewable energy utilization is the need of time to meet the future challenges. Ocean energy is the one of these promising energy resources. Threefourths of the earth’s surface is covered by the oceans. This enormous energy r...

We discuss the coupling processes between surface gravity waves and adjacent winds and currents in turbulent boundary layers. These processes mediate exchanges of momentum, heat, and gases between the atmosphere and ocean and thus are of global significance for climate. Surface waves grow primarily by pressure-form stress from airflow over the waveforms, and they dissipate in the open sea by wa...

Directional wave spectra generally exhibit several peaks due to the coexistence of wind sea generated by local wind conditions and swells originating from distant weather systems. This paper proposes a new algorithm for partitioning such spectra and retrieving the various systems which compose a complex sea-state. It is based on a sequential Monte-Carlo algorithm which allows to follow the time...

Various problems concerning the effects of the boundaries of the ocean on the propagation of pressure waves In the ocean are considered. The propagation of a transient pressure wave In a wedge shaped region of fluid Is treated. This Is the model chosen to describe the situation In which an underwater explosion takes place In a coastal ocean region which Is characterized by a strongly sloping bo...