The objective of this study was to investigate experimentally solitary waves run-up on sloping beaches. Conducted in the Super wave flume(5m×5.2m×300m) and the Large wave flume(2m×2m×200m)at Tainan Hydraulics Laboratory (THL), solitary waves were generated by moving the wave board forward in the manner of ramp-trajectory and solitary-wave-trajectory separately to simulate the various of wave he...

This paper is concerned with the wave length λ of smooth periodic traveling wave solutions of the Camassa-Holm equation. The set of these solutions can be parametrized using the wave height a (or "peak-to-peak amplitude"). Our main result establishes monotonicity properties of the map [Formula: see text], i.e., the wave length as a function of the wave height. We obtain the explicit bifurcation...

Significant wave height assessment in Bay of Bengal derived from third generation Wave Model (WAM cycle 4) has been improved by assimilating with continuous three hourly data from five moored buoys of National Institute of Ocean Technology using optimum interpolation technique. Covariance based weight function (gain) used in the study captures the model physics behind wind-wave process while di...

Wave conditions in the northern Baltic Proper during windstorm Erwin/Gudrun (January 2005) are analysed based on in situ measurements in three locations and output of operational wave models from the German Weather Forecast Service, the Danish Meteorological Institute and the Finnish Institute of Marine Research. The measured significant wave height reached 7.2 m in the northern Baltic Proper a...

This work is a representation of wave time-series data used in the Maxwave project, with sample time series and statistics of wave height, crest height, trough depth. Data are included from the Ekofisk and Draupner oil fields, and from Belgian coastal waters. In addition, extreme value analysis, and also studies of corrected and evolved time series was performed. INTRODUCTION This report is pre...