PURPOSE To examine differences in oxygenation kinetics in the nondominant and dominant flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) of rock climbers. METHODS Participants were 28 sport climbers with a range of on-site abilities (6a+ to 8a French Sport). Using near-infrared spectroscopy, oxygenation kinetics of the FDP was assessed by calculating the time to half recovery (t1/2 recovery) of the tissue-sat...

Dry-land strength training is a fundamental component for elite kayak performance. The aims of this research were 3-fold: 1st, to determine the relationship between performance time and strength scores for elite kayakers; 2nd, to identify how strength changes (gains or losses) over 3 training y relate with changes in performance time for elite kayakers; and 3rd, to compare the progression in pe...

OBJECTIVES To report the physiological responses of indoor rock climbing. METHODS Fourteen experienced climbers (nine men, five women) performed three climbing trials on an indoor climbing wall. Subjects performed three trials of increasing difficulty: (a) an easy 90 degrees vertical wall, (b) a moderately difficult negatively angled wall (106 degrees), and (c) a difficult horizontal overhang...

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During the 1993-1994 volleyball season, injuries to players in the two Danish elite divisions were registered by means of a questionnaire survey. Eighty per cent of the players returned the questionnaire. A total of 70 female players reported 79 injuries and 67 male players reported 98 injuries, representing an overall incidence of 3.8 injuries per player per 1000 volleyball hours played. The i...

Objectives-To report the physiological responses ofindoor rock climbing. Methods-Fourteen experienced climbers (nine men, five women) performed three climbing trials on an indoor climbing wall. Subjects performed three trials of increasing difficulty: (a) an easy 900 vertical wall, (b) a moderately difficult negatively angled wall (1060), and (c) a difficult horizontal overhang (1510). At least...