Infragravity waves (IGWs) that have lower wave frequencies than short (SWs) can cause significant impacts on coastal processes, such as beach erosion, when their amplitude increases toward the shore, specifically under energetic conditions. Therefore, it is important to precisely predict IGW shoaling based SW conditions for scientific and engineering purposes. In this study, of IGWs was observe...

GLOSSARY dispersive: Characteristic of waves whose velocity of propagation depends on wave frequency. The shape of a dispersive wave packet changes as it moves along. eigenfunction: Functional shape of the horizontal and vertical components of wave motion versus depth in the ocean for a specific wave frequency. geometrical spreading: Process of amplitude reduction resulting from the progressive...

A shallow water spectral wave prediction model based on a numerical solution of the radiative transfer equation is presented. The model is second generation and uses a simple yet effective representation for the nonlinear source term. In addition, the model pays particular attention to the shallow water processes of refraction, shoaling, bottom friction, and wave breaking. The flexibility of th...

The boundary element method (BEM) with Lagrangian formulation is a conceptually simple and efficient for the simulation of nonlinear wave shoaling, or without impermeable coastal structures, up to breaking. However, in post-breaking flows, domain no longer simply connected, BEM not generation new free surface. Volumes fluid (VOF) methods are made track fluid-free surfaces after breaking, but th...