(i) To have more confidence in claims’ authors, it should be more useful to use frequency spectra of the surface elevation, namely to demonstrate quantitatively the period doubling and edge wave suppression. We have added a new Figure 3, where we show two frequency spectra. The first spectrum (Figure 3 a) is in absence of the breaking waves, where the first peak indicates the edge wave frequenc...

A detailed quantitative comparison of fully nonlinear computations with the measurements of unidirectional wave groups is presented. Computational results on evolving wave groups were compared with previous available experiments. The local surface elevation variation, the evolution of envelope shapes, the velocity of propagation of the steepest crests in the group and their relation to the heig...

Away from surface and bottom boundary layers turbulent mixing is primarily driven by breaking internal waves. While internal wave energy is generated mostly in the form of large-scale waves (typically internal tides), it is the smallest-scale internal waves that break through shear or convective instabilities to produce turbulence. When waves are reasonably linear (as opposed to, for example, s...

[1] Synchronous infrasonic, video, and wave height measurements were performed during high surf at Polihale beach, Kauai, on March 4–12, 2005. During the experiment, atmospheric sound levels in the 0.5–20 Hz frequency band were associated with large breaking ocean waves. The envelope of surf infrasound signals yields breaking wave periods comparable to those derived from nearshore sea surface e...

Simultaneous microwave and video measurements of shallow water breaking waves are presented. A comparison of the data from the two sensors shows that short-duration spikes in the measured X-band radar cross section are highly correlated with the presence of breaking waves in the video imagery. In addition, the radar backscatter from shallow water breaking events is responsible for 40% to 50% of...

The difficult problem of understanding wave dissipation in the nearshore is approached through field observations made across a variety of beach profiles and under a wide range of wave conditions. Data are obtained remotely from video recordings of the surf zone and inner continental shelf, and image processing techniques are used to detect and quantify wave breaking over spatial and temporal s...

If wave breaking modifies the Lagrangian fluid orbital paths by inducing an uncertainty in the path itself and this uncertainty on wave motion time scales is observable as additive noise, it is shown that within the context of a wave/current interaction model for basin and shelf scale motions it persists on long time scales. The model of McWilliams et al. (2004) provides the general framework f...

The covariant Vlasov-Maxwell system is used to study breaking of relativistic warm plasma waves. The well-known theory of relativistic warm plasmas due to Katsouleas and Mori (KM) is subsumed within a unified geometric formulation of the ‘waterbag’ paradigm over spacetime. We calculate the maximum amplitude Emax of non-linear longitudinal electric waves for a particular class of waterbags whose...

The combined experimental and numerical study finds a complex mechanism of Z(2) symmetry breaking involving global bifurcations for the first time in hydrodynamics. In addition to symmetry breaking via pitchfork bifurcation, the Z(2) symmetry of a rotating wave that occurs in Taylor-Couette flow is broken by a global saddle-node-infinite-period (SNIP) bifurcation after it has undergone a Neimar...

Previous studies on wave-induced pore pressure in a porous seabed mainly focused non-breaking regular waves, e.g., Airy linear waves or Stokes non-linear waves. In this study, breaking-wave induced response sandy was physically simulated with large wave flume. The generated by superimposing series of longer onto the foregoing shorter at specified location. Water surface elevations and correspon...