The coastal system consists of a sub-aqueous and a sub-aerial zone which can be separated by a border. At this border sediment exchange takes place from one zone to the other. This paper hypothesizes that conditions and therefore sediment exchange at this border are dependent on active profile characteristics. To analyze morphological developments due to combined marine and aeolian processes da...

The objectives of this effort are to determine the extent to which Doppler radar techniques can be exploited for both qualitative and quantitative nearshore measurement applications. Of particular interest are estimates of surf zone location, extent, surface currents, and wave parameters. To date, optical (video) techniques have been the primary remote sensing technology for these applications....

The interaction of micron-sized mineral particles with stranded oil reduces its adhesion to solid surfaces, such as sediments or bedrock. The net result is the formation of stable, micron-sized, oil droplets that disperse into the water column. In turn, the increase in surface area makes the oil more available for biodegradation. Oil and Fine-particle Interaction (‘OFI’) can explain how oiled s...

This paper presents an investigation into the use of a 2-dimensional laser scanner (LiDAR) to obtain measurements of wave processes in the inner surf and swash zones of a microtidal beach (Rousty, Camargue, France). The bed is extracted at the wave-by-wave timescale using a variance threshold method on the time series. Individual wave properties were then retrieved from a local extrema analysis...

A new genus of Leptomysinae Hansen, 1910, constituting a new type species for science, is described: Pseudobranchiomysis arenae. This new mysid is characterized by a combination of the following characters: antennal scale lanceolate and setose all around with a pointed apex, telson with apical cleft armed with many fine spines on the convex margins, and well-developed pseudobranchial lobes in m...

Large bedforms in the nearshore (with heights of 10 – 50 cm and lengths of 1-10 m) are observed to occur frequently and to be ubiquitous throughout the surf zone (e.g., Clifton et al. 1971, Gallagher et al. 2002, Hay and Wilson 1994, Thornton et al. 1998). However, their dynamics are poorly understood and they are generally neglected in models of sediment transport, morphology change and nearsh...