نتایج جستجو برای: surf zone

تعداد نتایج: 113275  

2003
M. W. Denny L. P. Miller M. D. Stokes L. J. H. Hunt

Water velocities as high as 25 m s21 have been recorded in the surf zone of wave-swept rocky shores—velocities more than twice the phase speed of the breaking waves with which they are associated. How can water travel twice as fast as the waveform that initially induces its velocity? We explore the possibility that the interaction of a wave with the local topography of the shore can greatly amp...

Journal: :The Journal of the Acoustical Society of America 2004

Journal: :Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences 2019

Journal: :Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1974

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