نتایج جستجو برای: wave breaking

تعداد نتایج: 259580  

Journal: :Geophysical Research Letters 2019

Journal: :Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1978

2015
Andrew T. Jessup

The FAIRS experiment took place aboard R/P FLIP from 15 September to 15 October 2000 approximately 120 nautical miles off Monterey, California. Our approach was to use both the passive and the active infrared techniques to determine the extent to which our laboratory findings are relevant to the field. Over the past several years, we have used these techniques to investigate wave breaking on sp...

1999
C. L. Goodridge H. G. E. Hentschel D. P. Lathrop

Parametrically excited surface waves (Faraday waves) are studied near the threshold for breaking. The breaking state ejects droplets from wave peaks when the applied forcing exceeds an acceleration threshold. The rate of breaking events approaches zero gradually with decreasing acceleration. Two properties of these ejections were studied around the ejection threshold. Analysis of the ejection r...

2013
Chin-Hsien Wu Heidi M. Nepf Daniele Veneziano

Laboratory experiments were used to explore the influence of spatial focusing and diffraction on the evolution of unsteady, three-dimensional, deep-water wave-packets with a constant-steepness spectrum. The wave-packets were generated by thirteen independently programmed paddles and evolved to breaking near the midpoint of a 4m x 11 m test section. Detailed measurements of surface displacements...

2016
Divyanshu Bhardwaj Anirban Guha

This paper aims to apply two methods namely, Vortex Method and Higher Order Spectral Method to study the wave breaking and wave interaction. The breaking of shallow water gravity wave is performed using Vortex method, while the interaction between two gravity waves is carried out using Higher Order Spectral (HOS) method. In Vortex method an interface defined by a density or velocity discontinui...

2005
Wei Chen Vijay Panchang Zeki Demirbilek

Methods to incorporate the effect of ambient currents in the prediction of nearshore wave transformation are developed. This is accomplished through the construction of a finite-element coastal/harbor wave model based on an extended mild-slope wave–current equation that includes wave breaking. Improved boundary conditions are used to provide more accurate forcing and to minimize spurious wave r...

2016
Pierre Deymier Keith Runge

We present examples of phononic structures that beak four types of symmetry, namely timereversal symmetry, parity symmetry, chiral symmetry and particle-hole symmetry. The implications of symmetry breaking on the topology of the acoustic wave function in the space of its Eigen values are discussed. Particular attention is focused on the torsional topology of acoustic waves in periodic media in ...

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