Con la modelación numérica es posible anticipar condiciones de oleaje desfavorables para actividad portuaria. Mediante modelos numéricos acoplados factible incluir una mayor cantidad variables, parámetros, procesos e interacciones con el objetivo mejorar representación y precisión lo que ocurre en realidad. En este trabajo se presenta un sistema simulación costa Chile central mediante acoplamie...

Sand spits are common in wave-dominated environments; with enough sand supply, they can evolve to affect circulation and navigation channels or inlets. The focus of this paper is on the channel Sisal Port, located northwestern Yucatan Peninsula (YP) coast, where a spit grew was monitored from its formation (June 2018) until practically blocked (November 2018). YP coast characterized as being mi...

Abstract. Recent remote sensing measurements and numerical studies have shown that surface gravity waves interact strongly with small-scale open ocean currents. Through these interactions, the significant wave height, frequency, direction are modified. In present paper, we investigate interactions of a large isolated realistic cyclonic eddy. This eddy is subject to instabilities, leading genera...

Deep learning methods have excellent prospects for application in wave forecasting research. This study employed the convolutional LSTM (ConvLSTM) algorithm to predict South China Sea (SCS) significant height (SWH). Three prediction models were established investigate influences of setting different parameters and using multiple training data on effects. Compared with SWH from China–France Ocea...

The retreating of Arctic ice edge implies that global ocean surface wave models have to be extended at high latitudes or even to cover the North Pole in the future. The obstacles for conventional latitude-longitude grid wave models to cover the whole Arctic are the polar problems associated with their Eulerian advection schemes, including the CFL restriction on diminishing grid-length towards t...

(a) To provide an accurate, efficient, computational model (two-scale approximation, TSA) for the 4-wave interactions, in operational wave forecast models, suitable for global, basin and coastal scale applications, and able to transition seamlessly from deep to shallow water. (b) Fully test TSA with respect to exact codes for the full Boltzmann integral (FBI), for durationlimited, fetch-limited...

Abstract. As sea ice extent decreases in the Arctic, surface ocean waves have more time and space to develop grow, exposing marginal zone (MIZ) frequent energetic wave events. Waves can fragment cover over tens of kilometres, prospect increasing activity has sparked recent interest interactions between wave-induced fragmentation lateral melting. The impact this on dynamics, however, remains mos...

Prediction of severe natural hazards requires accurate forecasting systems. Recently, there has been a tendency towards more integrated solutions, where different components the Earth system are coupled to explicitly represent physical feedbacks between them. This study focuses on rapidly developing waves under extratropical storms understand impact wave source term parameterisations in WAVEWAT...