WANG, P. and KRAUS, N.C., 2005. Beach profile equilibrium and patterns of wave decay and energy dissipation across the surf zone elucidated in a large-scale laboratory experiment. Journal of Coastal Research, 21(3), 522–534. West Palm Beach (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. The widely accepted assumption that the equilibrium beach profile in the surf zone corresponds with uniform waveenergy dissipatio...
