A particle-based method is one of the most commonly used methods for fluid simulations. It is useful to simulate irregular and complex fluid motion with topological changes. Since the waves are generated from the collision of particles and the breaking wave phenomenon occurs when the waves collides with the city, the particle-based method provides a best way to simulate the breaking wave as wel...

Sufficient conditions for wave breaking are found for the short-pulse equation describing wave packets of few cycles on the ultra-short pulse scale. The analysis relies on the method of characteristics and conserved quantities of the short-pulse equation and holds both on an infinite line and in a periodic domain. Numerical illustrations of the finite-time wave breaking are given in a periodic ...

[1] The anomaly of radar sea spikes, defined here as the non-Bragg scattering events with backscattering cross-section of horizontal polarization exceeding that of the vertical polarization, has been associated with steep wave features possibly going through wavebreaking process, with or without whitecap manifestation. This property is exploited for using a dual polarized radar as a remote sens...

We present the first simultaneous space-time measurements for gravity wave turbulence in a large laboratory flume. We found that the slopes of k and omega wave spectra depend on wave intensity. This cannot be explained by any existing theory considering wave turbulence as the result of either breaking events or weakly nonlinear wave interactions. Instead, we show that random waves and breaking ...

An investigation into density and velocity fluctuations in the oceanic thermocline is presented. Two kinds of numerical simulation are reported. In the first, an attempt is made to capture the transition from breaking internal waves to the small-scale turbulence they generate. The model used for this is based on a continual forcing of a large-scale standing internal-wave. Evidence is presented ...

In a recent experiment the microwave emissivity of foam on calm water was measured to be 0.75 to 0.95 and dependent on polarization [1]. Microwave radiometric measurements of breaking waves on the open ocean showed that the emission due to wave breaking varies with the time dynamics of the wave, as well as with radiometer polarization and viewing angle [2]. However, the inherent intermittency a...

A theoretical study of the transformation of large amplitude internal solitary waves (ISW) of permanent form over a slope–shelf topography is considered using as basis the Reynolds equations. The vertical fluid stratification, amplitudes of the propagating ISWs, and the bottom parameters were taken close to those observed in the Andaman and Sulu Seas. The problem was solved numerically. It was ...

The Korteweg de Vries (KdV) equation is well known as an approximation model for small amplitude and long waves in different physical contexts, but wave breaking phenomena related to short wavelengths are not captured in. In this work we consider a class of nonlocal dispersive wave equations which also incorporate physics of short wavelength scales. The model is identified by a renormalization ...

This paper re-examines existing wave run-up data for regular, irregular and solitary waves on smooth, impermeable plane slopes. A simple physical argument is used to derive a new wave run-up equation in terms of a dimensionless wave parameter representing the maximum, depth-integrated momentum flux in a wave as it reaches the toe of the structure slope. This parameter is a physically relevant d...