Accurately capturing the observed mean period of ENSO in general circulation models (GCMs) is often challenging, and it is therefore useful to understand which parameters and processes affect this period. A computationally efficient simulation-based approach is used to extract both the dominant eigenvalues and corresponding eigenvectors of the linearized model from the Zebiak–Cane intermediate-...

It is widely accepted that air–sea interaction is one of the key factors in controlling tropical cyclone (TC) intensity. However, the physical mechanisms for connecting the upper ocean and air–sea interface with storm structure through the atmospheric boundary layer in TCs are not well understood. This study investigates the air–sea coupling processes using a fully coupled atmosphere–wave–ocean...

An observational program applying a broad suite of in-situ and boat-based remote sensing tools to the New River inlet and its interaction with the ocean was implemented during the RIVET I experiment. Of particular interest was the flow of the river through and within the inlet; wave breaking within the inlet as a result of shoaling and wave-current interactions; and the fate, dilution, and tran...

Underwater robots beneath ocean waves can benefit from feedforward control to reduce position error. This paper proposes a method using Model Predictive Control (MPC) to predict and counteract future disturbances from an ocean wave field. The MPC state estimator employs a Linear Wave Theory (LWT) solver to approximate the component fluid dynamics under a wave field. Wave data from deployed ocea...

Oceanic rogue waves are short-lived very large amplitude waves (a giant crest typically followed or preceded by a deep trough) that appear and disappear suddenly in the ocean causing damage to ships and offshore structures. Assuming that the state of the ocean at the present time is perfectly known, then the upcoming rogue waves can be predicted via numerically solving the equations that govern...

Most measurements of ocean surface wave variations are made in the temporal domain, i.e wave height or slope as a function of time. By contrast, a synthetic aperture radar (SAR) is capable of measuring waves in the twodimensional spatial domain at essentially a single instant. As a consequence, SAR imagery affords us a unique opportunity to examine some of the non-linear features of ocean surfa...

An operational assimilation system incorporating significant wave height observations in high resolution numerical wave models is studied and evaluated. In particular, altimeter satellite data provided by the European Space Agency (ESA-ENVISAT) are assimilated in the wave model WAM which operates in two different wave climate areas: the Mediterranean Sea and the Indian Ocean. The first is a win...

CFOSAT (the China France Oceanography Satellite) is a joint mission from the Chinese and French Space Agencies, devoted to the observation ocean surface wind and waves so as to improve wind and wave forecast for marine meteorology, ocean dynamics modeling and prediction, climate variability knowledge, fundamental knowledge of surface processes. Currently under Phase D (manufacturing phase), the...

A theory is presented of the generation and propagation of the two and the three dimensional tsunamis in a shallow running ocean due to the action of an arbitrary ocean floor or ocean surface disturbance. Integral solutions for both two and three dimensional problems are obtained by using the generalized Fourier and Laplace transforms. An asymptotic analysis is carried out for the investigation...

Monitoring ocean waves plays a crucial role in, for example, coastal environmental and protection studies. Traditional methods for measuring ocean waves are based on ultrasonic sensors and accelerometers. However, the Global Positioning System (GPS) has been introduced recently and has the advantage of being smaller, less expensive, and not requiring calibration in comparison with the tradition...