A fully nonlinear non-dispersive energy balance for surfzone waves is derived based on the shallow water equations (NLSWE) to study nearshore dynamics of infragravity (IG) waves. Based simulations a relatively moderate and mild beach slope with non-hydrostatic wave-flow model (SWASH), new theory shows that spatial gradients in IG flux are nearly completely balanced by combined effect bottom str...

A wave-exposed sea stack and a protected boulder beach at Cayucos Point, California, were compared in terms of their intertidal biota on 17-18 February 1973. The major differences between the two sites appear to be due largely to differences in the shearing forces of waves and habitat structure. The mosaic of crevices, rivulets, and angled substrates in conjunction with a broad gradual slope an...

Abstract. We applied machine learning to improve the accuracy of present predictors wave setup. Namely, we used an evolutionary-based genetic programming model and a previously published dataset, which includes various beach conditions. Here, two new setup predictors: simple predictor, is function height, wavelength, foreshore slope, fitter, but more complex also sediment diameter. The results ...

[1] Field observations of swash flow patterns and morphology change are consistent with the hypothesis that beach cusps form by self-organization, wherein positive feedback between swash flow and developing morphology causes initial development of the pattern and negative feedback owing to circulation of flow within beach cusp bays causes pattern stabilization. The self-organization hypothesis ...

As a socially, culturally and sexually constructed space, the nude beach has been the focus of academic research. Some studies have analysed the nude beach as a place where erotic relations and meanings among men are performed, constructed, negotiated and transformed. Th ese studies however have seldom acknowledged the multiple dimensions of sexualised practices and subjectivities taking place ...

The decision-aiding procedure developed by Beach and his colleagues for birth planning is reviewed. It is shown that the models underlying the Beach procedure have some unusual and problematic formal consequences. Contrary to the claims of Beach et al., the procedure cannot rely on a simple interpretation of standard utility theory for its justification. It is noted that, despite its formal dif...

Beach scarps are commonly associated with nourishment. Large and persistent beach not only affect the performance of nourishment, but also safety hazards to tourists. In this study, morphological evolution was examined at a nourished in low-energy micro-tidal environment. Topographic surveys nine profiles were carried out every 3–6 months after lasting for nearly 4.5 years, combined observed si...

This study aims to determine the concentrations of total coliforms and Escherichia coli (E. coli) in beach water, Teluk Kemang beach. This study was also aimed to determine relationship between total coliforms, E. coli and physicochemical parameters. As perceived health symptoms among beach visitors are rarely incorporated in beach water studies, this element was also assessed in this study. A ...