Spectral evolution of shoaling and breaking waves on a barred beach
نویسندگان
چکیده
منابع مشابه
Numerical Modeling and Experiments for Solitary Wave Shoaling and Breaking over a Sloping Beach
This research deals with the validation of fluid dynamic models, used for simulating shoaling and breaking solitary waves on slopes, based on experiments performed at the Ecole Supérieure d’Ingénieurs de Marseille’s (ESIM) laboratory. A separate paper, also presented at this conference, reports on experiments. In a first part of this work, a fully nonlinear potential flow model based on a Bound...
متن کاملSPH Model of Solitary Waves Shoaling on a Mild Sloping Beach
Shoaling of solitary waves on a uniform plane beach connected to a constant-depth wave tank is investigated numerically using the smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) method. The characteristics of water surface elevations have been analyzed for wave shoaling. To test the validity of the numerical model, the relative wave heights, the time histories of the free surface profiles are measured at...
متن کاملShoaling internal solitary waves
[1] The evolution and breaking of internal solitary waves in a shallow upper layer as they approach a constant bottom slope is examined through laboratory experiments. The waves are launched in a two-layer fluid through the standard lock-release method. In most experiments, the wave amplitude is significantly larger than the depth of the shallow upper layer so that they are not well described b...
متن کاملEvolution of Breaking Directional Spectral
Methods used in parabolic refraction-diiraction models for computing the evolution of monochromatic waves in the nearshore zone are used to construct a model for spectral wave conditions. The two dimensional spectrum is divided into discrete wave components and the individual wave components are computed simultaneously in the domain using parabolic models for each wave component. Statistical qu...
متن کاملLong-wave forcing by the breaking of random gravity waves on a beach
This paper presents new laboratory data on long-wave (surf-beat) forcing by the random breaking of shorter gravity water waves on a plane beach. The data include incident and outgoing wave amplitudes, together with shoreline oscillation amplitudes at long-wave frequencies, from which the correlation between forced long waves and short-wave groups is examined. A detailed analysis of the cross-sh...
متن کاملذخیره در منابع من
با ذخیره ی این منبع در منابع من، دسترسی به آن را برای استفاده های بعدی آسان تر کنید
ژورنال
عنوان ژورنال: Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans
سال: 1997
ISSN: 0148-0227
DOI: 10.1029/97jc01010